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Author Topic:   3link/z-link
FASTLAP
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 171
posted April 09, 2004 06:41 AM  
Has anyone ever tried 3 link lr & a z-link rr (spring on top)? What kind of results do you think? Thanks.

mod311
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted April 09, 2004 08:07 AM  
When you say 3 link, are you talking about swingarms?

fastow
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 168
posted April 09, 2004 05:51 PM  
Been there and done that! I have worked with about three cars we ended up with something like that. What are you looking at tring to get your car to do ? It was my theory that rear rollsteer was a good thing but only happens after the car is into a corner my thought was I wanted the rearover steer to start soon as a driver lifted off the gas making a driver more comfortable driving deeper into the corner knowing that when he lifted the cars attitude was going to want to turn left not knock down the wall. Then when you pick up the gas your into the corner witch means you have your rollsteer to help keep your corner speed up and the cars attitude would being to keep the rear under you when you apply the gas. This all happens when rearend rotates back and forth with the pull bar or 5th arm and on the left the three link pivit is mounted lower than the center of the axle and the right side is rotating in the bird cage. One time for awhile I mounted the right side like a 2 link but with the rod mounted above the axle and the left side in a bird cage made worked the same but maybe 50 times more ratical and it builds a s**** pile pretty fast LOL Just another opinion here lets here what you other guys think of this idea.

FASTLAP
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 171
posted April 10, 2004 06:27 AM  
mod311, I meant more like what fastow was talking about. I have a 4 bar / z link now, and I was wondering the other night what results would I get if I locked up the lr like a 3 link , remove the top bar, but leave the rr as a zlink (spring on top). By the way, I'd love to try a swing arm on the lr. If I could get the owner to ok it!!

MadMod20
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted April 10, 2004 07:08 AM  
FastLap,

That suspension works GREAT! RR spring on top with a z-link and LR with the spring about 6" in front of the axle. I use a 15" trailing arm on the LR and a 17" RR with a 22" z-link rod. I have a 6 hole bracket for the z-link rod with the 3rd hole up level with the top hole of the birdcage. Roll steer is really easy to tune for just about any track. Works great on dry slick.

WPP
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 451
posted April 10, 2004 06:59 PM  
MADMOD what springs did you run with that setup on a dry slick and tacky track

MadMod20
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted April 11, 2004 07:03 AM  
I use a 125# on the RR and a 275# on the LR. I use a coilover eliminator for the LR and a jack bolt for the RR. With the LR 6" in front of the axle tube it is kinda like having a swingarm but the spring is clamped to the axle tube. With the LR that far in front of the axle when you get on the gas it acts like it has a j-bar on it. Tons of forward bite.

FASTLAP
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 171
posted April 11, 2004 07:03 AM  
Ok, MadMod20, you've peaked my curiosity.(And WPP's, too!) We're all friends here, what's the scoop? I run a half mile slick track myself. Have a metric front. Happy Easter, everyone!----------

FASTLAP
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 171
posted April 11, 2004 07:04 AM  
Sorry Madmod, we must have posted at the same time.

FASTLAP
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 171
posted April 11, 2004 07:07 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by MadMod20:
I use a 125# on the RR and a 275# on the LR. I use a coilover eliminator for the LR and a jack bolt for the RR. With the LR 6" in front of the axle tube it is kinda like having a swingarm but the spring is clamped to the axle tube. With the LR that far in front of the axle when you get on the gas it acts like it has a j-bar on it. Tons of forward bite.

How do you get the LR spaced 6" in front of the tube? Not sure how to accomplish that.

MadMod20
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted April 11, 2004 08:04 AM  
I have my trailing arm bracket & shock mount made on 1 bracket and the spring mount on another. I just used a 1 1/2" clamp on collar for each one. They set side by side on the axle tube. The T/A mount is 6" below the C/L of the axle and the shock mounted behind that. Then I made a 6" double shear bracket for the CO eliminator for the other collar and mounted it to where the bottom heim is about 1" below the C/L of the axle. The T/A bracket mounts beside the caliper mount and the spring mounts to the inside of that directly under the tube going to the back of the car. The top coil over eliminator bracket is welded directly to the tube going to the rear of the car. I made a bracket with five holes on the radius of the CO eliminator and welded that to the tube. The first hole has 5 degrees forward and the others are 3/4" apart to the front of the car.

If I need the spring rate a little softer, I just lean the elimator forward. As I get on the gas, the LR moves forward because of the shorter T/A and gets up under the spring. It really lifts up the LR of the car. Just like a j-bar or short bar would do. I run a panhard bar in the rear about 23" long. The car drives really smooth with the panhard bar, but reacts under throttle like a j-bar would. It will 3 wheel on demand.

On the RR it is just a standard z-link. Shock is mounted on the birdcage. I have 2 mounts on the bird cage and can run the shock either in front or the rear. Mostly I run a 3 valve shock on the rear, but a split valve in front works really well on a rough track. I have 6 holes for the rear z-link bar and a slider for the T/A. The 3rd hole up on the rear is level with the top hole on the bird cage. It's real easy to control the rear steer with the z-link. I can get up to 2" of loose steer out of it. Or I can set it upto 1" tight. I generally leave the LR T/A at about 12-15 degrees up angle and tune everything else on the RR.

I guess I explained this right. I don't explain things too well. Sorry.

MadMod20
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted April 11, 2004 08:14 AM  
Oh yeah, I use a spring bar, too. 900# mostly, but sometimes as much as 1200# depending on the track. Probably should just put a progressive spring in it, but haven't tried that yet. I have tried a medium rubber biscuit bar, but to me, it doesn't let the rear end react fast enough. I like it get up on the LR really quick. On dry slick I get great drive off the corner.

FASTLAP
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 171
posted April 11, 2004 09:00 AM  
Fine job explaining. I'll have to read through it a couple of times to soak it all in! lol Thanks.

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