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Author Topic:   TEMP. HEAD FIX??
MINI2.3DIRTRACER
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted June 04, 2003 10:13 AM  
HEY ALL
I'LL TRY TO KEEP THIS ONE SHORT. I HAVE RECEIVED SOME GREAT TIPS/ADVICE ON BUILDING A NEW HEAD -- THX MUCH TO BOBBY AND OTHERS FOR THE INFO. SO NOW I HAVE A GOOD PLAN ON WHAT I NEED TO DO, THE ONLY PROBLEM IS THE ALL MIGHTY $$$$$$$---IT'S GOING TO TAKE ME SOME TIME TO GET THIS HEAD DONE, MIGHT HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL THE WINTER BREAK.
ANYWAY LET ME GET TO THE POINT, WHAT CAN I DO NOW THAT WILL NOT COST TOOO MUCH TO GET A LIL MORE OUT OF MY HEAD. I WAS THINKING: ADJUSTABLE CAM SPROCKET, CHEATER VALVES, AND A POLISH AND PORT JOB. WILL THIS HELP?? KEEP IN MIND I'M RUNNING THE LONG ROD BOTTOM, MILLED HEAD .145, BUT ONLY A STOCK CAM SET UP (.420 LIFT I THINK). JUST TRYING TO GET A LIL MORE BANG UNTIL I CAN GET THIS NEW HEAD DONE, ALL TIPS/ADVICE WILL HELP.
THX ERIC (MINI2.3)

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted June 04, 2003 07:04 PM  
I think the cheapest thing to do would be getting a good hydraulic cam and the cam gear. But if you plan on going with a mechanical or roller cam later on the hydraulic cam money is gone, unless you know someone you race with that might need it. This way you dont have to pay for the machine work of the mechanical cam installation. Also, if you have a die grinder you could "gasket match" your intake and exhaust ports. I have never done it personally, a friend did it for mine. But what it is (if i am not mistaken), is your gaskets are a bit bigger than your actual ports on the intake manifold, the intake side of the head, the exhause side of the head, and the exhaust manifold. If you grind out the area where the head and manifolds are smaller than the ports, that will give you a bit better flow. But get some advice on someone else about this for proper procedure before you dive into it.

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted June 05, 2003 12:43 AM  
A good cam is the 510 from crane unless you have some type of vac. rule YOu might have to go a bit smaller like a 490 something as if you are on a budget just change to that keep you valves the same and if you are running the Dport open chanber head it will flow good enough. This will be your back up head right so this head might me used again. I would not worry about the valves onthis one but anywho this is again just my .o2

MINI2.3DIRTRACER
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted June 05, 2003 10:43 AM  
hey thx guy's, if i go w/ this hyd cam i listed below, do i have to chg my lifters/followers also or could i use the ones on it now?? oh and bobby you said something about a "vac rule" what you mean on that??
thx mini2.3
hyd cam
1404 #3 $124 240(duration@.50) .540 (lift)

STAGE 3 - Competition only. This cam will not idle below 1500 rpm. Mechanical version must be used with our oversize valves for proper valve train geometry. Power from 4000-7500, but will be strong up to 8000 rpm if you have to go that high. Hydraulic cams rev limit is 7200 rpm.

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted June 05, 2003 02:11 PM  
if you run real tight valve spring pressure like 100-110 at the seat and run double springs then I would say it would be good up to 7500-7800 but I have heard of guys going higher but I do not know how. I was thinking cheap. And if that is what you are thinking then go for a smaller lift higher duration cam. if you stay below .500 then you will not have to get longer than stock valves. Schnieder cams ( spelling is close but the i and e might be switched) they have a web sight you can email or call them and ask for Jerry tell him what you are doing and have your motor setup and you track size and carb size and he can set you up. BObby

shaggy12
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 13
posted June 05, 2003 10:39 PM  
The crane 510 is a great cam!!! Hyd roller that uses stock height valves. To say it has a max rpm of 7200 is correct. You can twist alot higher but you can notice that it flatlines after a certain point.

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