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Author Topic:   NEED HELP ON 2.3 REBUILD,PLEASE!!
MINI2.3DIRTRACER
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted April 21, 2003 11:24 AM  
HEY ALL,
I'M BACK-- UNCLE SAM DID NOT NEED ME --SO I'M ON REAR D' HOLDING DONN THE FORT.
ANYWAY I GOT MY NEW 2.3 BUILT AND IN THE CAR, STARTED FOR THE FIRST TIME SAT. HAD A FEW PROBLEMS HOPE SOME ONE CAN HELP WITH. 1) THAT FLYWHELL OFF 86 ESCORT I PUT IN (POSTED QUESTION ON "LITE FLY WHEEL TOPIC" 2) HAVE A SLIGHT OIL LEAK AT FRONT OF ENGINE, IT'S AT THE COVER THAT SIT'S RIGHT BEHIND THE SMALL TIMIMG BELT PULLY ON THE BOTTOM (ON CRANK SHAFT.), HOW THE HECK DO YOU GET THAT PULLEY OUT OF THERE??? 3) WHEN I DID GET IT STARTED I HAD TO PLAY W/ THE TIMEING UNTILL THE ENGINE FIRED UP. I CAN GET IT TO FIRE RIGHT UP NOW..BUT.... WHEN I PULL BACK ON THE THROTLE IT'S !!VERY!! SLOW TO RESPOND??? I HAVE AN OLD STYLE HOLLY "355" CARB ON THERE, DO YOU THINK IT'S A CARB PROBLEM? OR MAYBE MY ELEC FULE PUMP NUT PUSHING ENOUGH FULE, OR COULD MY TIMING BE THE PROBLEM???
ALL THE HELP I CAN GET WILL BE GREAT, I'M AN AMATURE THIS IS MY 2ND SEASON (IF I EVER GET TO THE TRACK) AND MY FIRST REBUILD-- SO I'M LEARNING AS I GO... THX IN ADVANCE

[This message has been edited by MINI2.3DIRTRACER (edited April 21, 2003).]

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted April 21, 2003 05:59 PM  
Is the the same carb you ran last year? When I bought my car, I raced it like I bought it for the first few weeks. I had the same problem with the throttle, when I let off, it took a while (like 5 or 6 seconds) to get down to idle. The problem was... I was missing a needle in the carb, and my intake manifold was cracked where one of the carb studs went. Run your car outside somewhere you wont get a lot of echo noise, and listen for leaks around your intake and carb.

OR

After reading your post again, I am guessing that when you hit the throttle it takes a while for your engine to get up to speed? That wouldnt be a fuel pump problem since your bowl should keep enough fuel in reserve for good response. I had a problem with a kinked fuel line last year during a race, and I ran fine until 3/4 down the straights, and it started cutting out on me. Maybe your cam is 180 degrees out. I assembled my head with the cam 180 out once, and it fired right up, but ran like crap.

But I am no engine expert, like b4racing says, its just my 2 cents

------------------
im gonna be in front someday

MINI2.3DIRTRACER
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted April 22, 2003 10:20 AM  
THX FOR THE ADVICE, IF MY CAM WAS 180 OUT?? HOH WOULD I CORRECT THAT?? OUR YOU SAYING I MAY HAVE BEEN TDC ON THE EXHAUST STROK WHEN I STARTED IT?? WOULD ROLLING AROUND 180 CORRECT??? BECAUSE I HAD MY HEAD WORK DONE MID SEASON LAST YEAR, AND THE CAM HAS NOT COME OUT, I JUST REBUILT THE BOTTOM END " W/ 5.7 ROD'S SHORT PISTONS, & TURNED CRANK" I HAD ONE GUY SAY IT MAY BE A VACUM LEAK, AND TO CHECK IT BY SPAYING STARTER FLUID AROUND CARB AND INTAKE WHILE IT's RUNING??? RIGHT NOW I NEED TO GET THIS T/O BEARING DEAL FIXED, I GOT THE TRANNY HALF OFF LAST NIGHT, GOTA GET A LIL WORK IN HERE AND THERE-- YOU KNOW?? HEY THX AGAIN.. (OH THAT CARB IS FROM LAST YEAR , CAME W/ CAR. IT WAS ON THE SELF LAST 2 WEEKS OF SEASON / ALL WINTER, SOMEONE LET ME BORROW A NEWER 350 AT THE END LAST YEAR --BEFORE I BLEW THE ENGINE)

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted April 22, 2003 02:00 PM  
Yeah if you pulled your head off, your no.1 cylinder might be at the top of exhaust stroke. That is what I meant, I dont know for sure or not if that is what your problem is, but if you have the time, check it out. All you would have to do to correct that is turn your no 1 to the top of the next stroke. Heck you could even be one tooth off on your timing gear. But it sounds like a cam timing problem to me. Is your firing order correct? I can think of three possible problems. 1: (i had this same problem) the cylinders are on the wrong stroke, what I was refering to as 180 out. 2: Firing Order. 3: Maybe you are a tooth off on the cam gear timing, but this one I have no experience with personally, but it wouldnt hurt looking in to.

MINI2.3DIRTRACER
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted April 23, 2003 10:06 AM  
THX AGAIN, NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT-IT MIGHT BE FIRING ORDER, I RE DID MY WIRES, CAP AND ROTAR BUTON MIGHT HAVE MIS-PLACED WIRES ON THE CAP?? I'LL CHECK IT OUT. AS FOR 180 OUT? I GOT TO THINKING ABOUT THAT (MIGHT BE MY PROBLEM) ANYWAY IF I'M 180 OUT, AND I TURN THE CRANK BY HAND 180 (TO GET OFF EXH. STROKE.) SHOULD I HAVE MY TIMING BELT OFF OR DISTRIBUTER PULLED UP?? SO IT DON'T CHANGE AS I TURN?? THX AGAIN ALL THE HELP I CAN GET " I NEED" (LEARNING AS I GO)

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted April 23, 2003 02:18 PM  
yeah you gotta pull your timing belt off the cam gear, if you dont your cam and crank timing wont change, if you are doing it with the head on. But then again, if you pull the head off, you gotta pull the belt anyways, so yes you gotta slip the belt off the cam gear. I have a mark where the rotor is for #1 wire so I always get the rotor in the general area of where it needs to be.Firing order is 1-3-4-2. Hope this helps.

ruffride
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 13
posted May 05, 2003 08:14 PM  
rember 2300 starts #1 plug at the back of the motor. If its the carb go to your local parts store (autozone) and ask for a carb for a 1971 pinto wagon its a holly 5200 runs great right out of the box about $130.00. Rember 1971 pinto wagon any other year same carb alot more money

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted May 05, 2003 09:12 PM  
I beg to differ on the #1 plug being at the back.

MINI2.3DIRTRACER
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted May 06, 2003 02:17 PM  
all thx,
i have to agree w/ bobby the # 1 is at the front of the motor, but that info on that carb sounds great--i'm going to check that out. i'm going to put a post up w/ these new issues from sat race- (as soon as i catch my breath around here "uncle sam-for ya")i can't wait to get all the advice.. this is a great site i have learned a lot--
thx to all

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