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Author Topic:   2.3 questions (rookie)
nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted October 22, 2002 11:15 PM  
just got a stock 2.3, first one for me. what's with all this wiring and hoses? what can be removed and still run right. do i switch carbs and get rid of everything? if anyine can help in anyway please let me know. thanks.

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted October 23, 2002 12:47 AM  
I was where you are 5 months ago. I understand what you mean. You wanna get a Holley 350 carb, it will bolt right onto the intake manifold. If you have a tight budget go for the Holley 500 carb, it runs about 60 bucks cheaper but isn't as good off the turns. But the 500 is just fine. If you wanna know all about the 2300cc engine and how to make it go faster check out www.racerwalsh.com they have a good tech page for the 2300. I suggest with a minimum budget to shave the head a bunch, and use some high octane fuel for the higher compression. I heard of guys putting studs in the intake manifold bolt holes with loc-tite and even shaving part of the studs off with the head. I havent tried it yet, gonna try it in the offseason. Also a good thing to do for the 2.3 is get a 90's 2.3 valve cover gasket from a ranger so you dont have to replace it every time you pull your valve cover off. All I ran last season was a regular 2.3 with 60 over pistons and a ported head, but I wasnt as fast as the guys with major stuff done. But really I just finished my first season, so you probably want to get some more expert advice. www.racerwalsh.com really helped me out as a beginner though.

way2fast
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 104
posted October 23, 2002 01:27 PM  
You can spend untill you get sick on 2.3s if you have the money all you have to do is order the parts. I have checked out racerwalsh my self and it is an excelent site just read up on it.

SKULLHULL
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted October 23, 2002 10:34 PM  
my bro. ran a stock 2300 last year $100 wrecking yard with a header , we worked on the setup and he was as fast as the big money guys ,so in short all you need to do to 2300 is carb and head work set the cam for the way you drive, and get setup down. scale your car it makes the car drive smooth.power is not were speed is ,my bro also finished 3rd in a open comp race without doing anything to the car. rember airflow = h.p. good luck

2FAST4U
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 175
posted October 24, 2002 09:14 PM  
i think you need to do something with head first off.. depending on how much money you want to spend you can go all out with bottom end and all...BUT dont forget head it where your power is at the holley 500 is just as good as the 350 . header is cheap horsepower.

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted October 25, 2002 04:07 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by shadoza:
I was where you are 5 months ago. I understand what you mean. You wanna get a Holley 350 carb, it will bolt right onto the intake manifold. If you have a tight budget go for the Holley 500 carb, it runs about 60 bucks cheaper but isn't as good off the turns. But the 500 is just fine. If you wanna know all about the 2300cc engine and how to make it go faster check out www.racerwalsh.com they have a good tech page for the 2300. I suggest with a minimum budget to shave the head a bunch, and use some high octane fuel for the higher compression. I heard of guys putting studs in the intake manifold bolt holes with loc-tite and even shaving part of the studs off with the head. I havent tried it yet, gonna try it in the offseason. Also a good thing to do for the 2.3 is get a 90's 2.3 valve cover gasket from a ranger so you dont have to replace it every time you pull your valve cover off. All I ran last season was a regular 2.3 with 60 over pistons and a ported head, but I wasnt as fast as the guys with major stuff done. But really I just finished my first season, so you probably want to get some more expert advice. www.racerwalsh.com really helped me out as a beginner though.

And you definately wanna get an adjustable cam gear, check out other posts in here on it to learn a little more about them.

------------------
im gonna be in front someday

buckseight
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 150
posted October 26, 2002 08:13 AM  
but to answer your question.basicly you can take all the wiring out but the ignition stuff.you want to leave. you dont say what year or what type you have.but even if you had a computer you dont need it.as you state you have a carb.

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted October 26, 2002 04:59 PM  
thanks for the help. the motor is out of a 80 pinto it has the durspark ignition. i was wondering if i caould get a head off a later model ranger with a bigger cam and maybe shave the head a little and just bolt it on? will this work? i believe i'm gonna have my holley 500cfm set up for this engine. i have purchased a set of headers. as far as the iginition goes is there a web site with diagram for installing a push button? so i know what wires gotta be hooked up and where they go. thanks for the help once again. this is a great site.

buckseight
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 150
posted October 27, 2002 05:39 AM  
first off throw that dura spark dist. away get a t.f.i. dist ,it drops right in only hook bottom 3 wires. this dist does away with that control moduell on the side of the fender that will go out on ya about 3 laps from the finish of the race,take the head down .150 it'll bolt right on.just my .02

buck

JPR166
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 27
posted October 27, 2002 09:29 AM  
Buchseight, what year distributor should we use to go with the TFI? Thanks JPR

buckseight
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 150
posted October 27, 2002 10:21 AM  
any 89 & up 2.3 it will be the one with the little module on the side of dist.i got mine from a 89 escort. $15.00

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted October 27, 2002 12:18 PM  
i've heard the tfi will overheat, any opinions on this? i'm looking for the more reliable option.

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted October 27, 2002 06:05 PM  
how will milling the head affect the cam timing? or clearances or what are any disadvantages to milling the head .100-.150?

15racing
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 5
posted October 27, 2002 06:21 PM  
I started the year of with a differ head that was milled .100 car run descent. I removed the head and took another .075 off. I could tell a world of difference. Kept timing the same.

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted October 27, 2002 10:57 PM  
The only disadvantage that I know of is the ability to mill the head after it gets warped from overheating etc... But other than that I dont think there are any disadvantages. It will not affect the cam timing any. There is a thread from way back about milling the head in the mini-stock dirt forum... go back a few pages and look for it. It may take a while, but I think it will be worth it.

[This message has been edited by shadoza (edited October 28, 2002).]

2FAST4U
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 175
posted October 28, 2002 12:09 PM  
i dont think you can use a ranger head becouse of intake reasons i think i have ran into this problem ..they are fuel injected so the holes are circl not oval or d

buckseight
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 150
posted October 28, 2002 03:38 PM  
i've heard nothing of the t.f.i. heating up,
can change the module in about 3 min.they also make one with the module same as the one on the dist but is mounted diff. place will ck. on the year,make,model. i think you can get the adapter for the fi intake?

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted October 28, 2002 04:37 PM  
racer walsh has a wiring diagram for Ford 2.3 www.racerwalsh.com ----- here is how to get to it, from MAIN PAGE, go to SITE MAP then to VIDEO TECH SHEET wiring diagram is at the botton

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted October 28, 2002 05:01 PM  
i am pretty sure i saw an adapter for fi intake to carb so that should work as far the ranger head. i am making a trip to the part shop (junkyard) to look for tfi distrib. i'll look for each kind. anything else i need to know before i go? i found the wiring diagram, it should be quite useful, thanks. how much did you guys pay to get head milled .150, if ya don't mind. thanks for all the help so far.

[This message has been edited by nwracr (edited October 28, 2002).]

buckseight
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 150
posted October 28, 2002 06:36 PM  
dont forget the coil if you have the old round one change it.also make sure you cut your wires long enough off the junkyard engine, i know a guy that believe it or not cut his wires right up to the dist.
duh. hello the doctor called your brain is ready.good luck

buck

wildcat4257
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 127
posted October 30, 2002 07:52 AM  
milling the head retards the timing and makes a stock cam sprocket nearly impossible to use. mill the head and get an adjustable cam sprocket. set cam at 0 and mark new 0 on the sprocket with a file or something. then advance cam timing to desired point. the new 0 on the sprocket WILL NOT be the same as the factory mark on the adjustable gear. thus the need for a new starting mark.
any more questions e-mail me @ wildcat4257@aol.com
put 2.3 questions as topic so i will know it is you.
WILDCAT

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted November 03, 2002 02:24 AM  
I dont mean to argue, just inform myself. But how does the timing get retarded from milling the head? The belt is the same length and as long as the tensioner is tight it shouldnt have any effect. That is how I see it. But please tell me your opinion, 'cause i have been wrong before. I really am not trying to say your wrong, honest.

------------------
im gonna be in front someday

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted November 06, 2002 03:55 PM  
first, thanks for all the help. can anyone tell me what work would need to be done to an '80's stock head to install a mechanical cam lift of about 460. it's a crane cam i've been looking at but i guess you need to drill for the springs and some other stuff. what about lifters and all that. if anyone has any parts that may help, i'd be interested in them to. thanks again for all your help.

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted November 06, 2002 10:43 PM  
first what is your rules. 2 I would not go with the later model d port(closed chamber) I would stick with your oval port and get an efi intake and adapter.3 I believe It retards it because it brings the cam closer to the crank. 4 As long as you stay at that lift I believe I would go with the drop in solid lifters. But remember all this allows you to do is turn higher rpms. There is more maintance. If you could tell us your class rules that would help us give you some more advice on the engine. Bobby

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted November 08, 2002 06:47 PM  
can someone tell me what kind of ignition the heads with 8 plugs works with? i have never seen one. does anyone here run one of these. is it difficult to setup. thanks again, i'm just wondering.

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted November 08, 2002 08:57 PM  
I believe it is called a crank fire that is all I know about them to sorry.

50Pinto
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 5
posted November 08, 2002 10:53 PM  
To Shadoza, simple answer-top of head is closer to crank after milling, belt has to be tight on left side of motor, belt has slack in it now, so cam has to be turned back toward exhaust manifold to tighten up belt.Result, retards cam.

Just the Dad
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 1
posted November 09, 2002 11:17 PM  
50pinto you are corect
can any of you tell me what the othere web sight is for 2.3 parts, I have lost it.
thank's

shadoza
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 123
posted November 13, 2002 12:42 AM  
Wow yer right man. Dang I hate being wrong. I have a ? though. Dont you want the cam a bit retarded? Retarding the cam will give you more high rpm power right?

------------------
im gonna be in front someday

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted November 13, 2002 09:15 AM  
I believe you have it backwards

nwracr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 49
posted November 13, 2002 02:14 PM  
Retarding the cam will give you more top end and advanced will give you more on the bottom end. shadoza is right.

b4racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 626
posted November 13, 2002 07:02 PM  
my bad I had a brain fart.

jonboy
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 26
posted November 29, 2002 04:00 PM  
Milling the head will NOT retard the cam timing. The cam should be installed with both valves closed at TDC and then put the belt on. The length of the belt is irrelevant since you you have a tensioner. Obviously an adjustable cam gear would be even better for fine tuning. The method I described above takes into consideration you will ignore the timing marks on the cam gear. Esslinger refers to this as the e-bar method based on a level bar on top of the front lobes indicating a good base line. Adjust from there with the adjustable gear. As far as milling, .165 or down to the intake studs is good. There is nothing you can do to that engine to make more difference than compresion!!! A great cam with low compression is worthless. My .02 worth. Try to have some fun!!!

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