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Author Topic:   CRX against Mustangs and Pintos
MS8Crew
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted April 30, 2002 01:44 PM  
My brother and I are building a CRX. We will be racing under "Stock" rules on a 1/4 mile track. The competition ranges from Civics to Mustangs. Supposing we can get this car to turn, what do you think our chances are?

KWTracer
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 233
posted April 30, 2002 09:46 PM  
In stock condition, you prob not going to have a power problem. But handling...There's not alot of information on setting up a FWD. We have been discussing that recently. The key is to get the car into the corner rotate it and the FWD will pull the car off the corner. Theres not a lot of control sliding the car through the corner. FDW tend to push. Weight placement is critical on them. You can try things like using a little more rear brake on entry with power on, run smaller tires on the rear. Play with shocks if you can, thats where its at. The biggest problem I have found is you really need to have the half shafts physically locked somehow so you don't get one wheel peel, but theres not any really good, inexpensive way to do this on alot of cars. Then you have to worry about breaking CV's. Its alot of work, mostly because you don't have alot of advice to go on, but i have seen it work. There are some really fast FWD out there.

MS8Crew
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted May 01, 2002 06:57 AM  
I'm obviously not an expert. I've hung around with some Pure stock guys and learned a few things about their setups etc... I don't think that much of this info will apply in our case. Our car will weigh less than 1500 lbs when completed. This will make for an excellent power to weight ratio. The key for any racer, and especially in our case, will be handling. I have access to scales, but have no clue what the baseline percentages and cross weights should be. Anybody have a clue where we should start at?

The rules we will be racing under say stock everything. If its like every other class, people will do anything they can get away with. We know some undectable things we can do to increase hp, but what can we do to the suspension? Are there other stock springs / struts that will help change left vs right ratios or will we have to weaken the lefts with heat?
Another concern I have is dealing with safety. What is the safest and strongest way to attach the rollcage to the unibody? I am assuming that I need to weld plates to the bars and weld the plates to the floorboard. then bolt the plates through the floorboard to another plate. This should be done on all 4 points. Will this method be strong enough to withstand a hard impact? My fear is that 1 good impact will twist the car and junk it.

PS This is the only forum I've seen anywhere that deals with mini stocks. Lots of great info here. Thanks for providing such a great place to pick peoples brains. Right now I'm learning and need info. Hopefully there will be a point in time that I can offer help to others.

KWTracer
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 233
posted May 01, 2002 06:26 PM  
Well first off, let me say, I'm not an expert in anything. Especially not FWD setups. The same principles you learned with the RWD car will apply to you car. Its just your going to be running way different percentages than them. 1500 lbs is really light. Are you planning on running a front or rear loop? If not, your going to have a better chance of tweaking the car in a wreck. I would tie into the front and rear on a unibody. As far as percentages, I would get the car as neutral as possible. I don't know, maybe start with front to rear as close as possible and work from there. Your still going to need more left side weight. And you not going to want to run as much cross. The more you load the RF+LR, the more you unload the LF drive wheel. Your probably not going to mess with shock valving much, so well leave that alone. I don't even know if you can get racing shocks/struts that will go in stock mounts for that thing. You can get springs for anything. You can change the ride heights by cutting the spring, but I wouldn't try to change them by heating them. Heating them takes the spring rate out. You can weaking a spring with heat, but its so inconsistant and you don't know what you have. Search past posts about rollcages. Everybody does it differently. You don't want to simply plate the floor pan and bolt or weld the cage to it. The rockers are stronger than the floorpan and so are the front and rear frame horns. So I would mount the dashbar downrights and rear hoop as wide as possible tie them into the floor pan as well as the rocker. Move the drivers side dashbar as far forward as possibe for leg protection and try find someplace that would tie into where the frame horns start. On the rear hoop, usually over a control arm or spring mount is the strongest place because that usually where the frame section starts. Now if you triangluate the front and rear with down rights from the dashbar to front frame horns, and from the top of the rear hoop back to the end of the rear frame rails, it will reduce the chance on one end folding up in a wreck. Always attach the seat to the rollcage, so you move with the roll cage if it bends. Man, I don't even know if what I said makes any sense lol. Hopefully you can get some useful out of this. Maybe someone else has some suggestion. Good luck

[This message has been edited by KWTracer (edited May 01, 2002).]

MS8Crew
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 17
posted May 04, 2002 07:41 AM  
KWTracer, Thanks for the reply. You stated a mouth full. After reading your post several times, the info on the roll cage does make sense. We have some work to do in that area. There is a company out of western Pennsylvania (Redline Motorsports) that makes a roll cage kit for ministocks. I think this kit will work with modifications. www.rlms.com. I'm not sure if we can run front or rear hoops. The rules state stock bumpers only. I will be checking with the tech guy to see if we can reinforce the stock bumpers.

We are permitted to run nurf bars. should these connect from the front to the rear loop?

I have never really had a good look at a mini stock. We are going to the track on Sunday to snoop around and see how others deal with these issues. The racers I've been around are usually willing to share when it comes to car construction etc...

I found a book named "The Front-Wheel Driving High-Performance Advantage" By Jack Doo, Published by Motorbooks International. It is full of info on setups and driving techniques. I think it will prove to be a valuable resource. This book is out of print and may be a little hard to find. I found mine on amazon.com. It was listed by a used book dealer.

Thanks again for ihe info

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