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Author Topic:   Motor for Late Model
knichols
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 11
posted November 30, 2003 04:48 PM  
I have a good 350 block cast # 3970014 '71 model in good shape still stock. I want to build a motor to go in my boyfriends dicarded '97 model Masterbuilt chassis (he is going to run a 4 bar next season and I sure hate to see a perfectly good car going to waste! lol . He and I dont always see eye to eye on motors. With him, bigger is better...which is not always bad except we are talkin' horsepower here! We run on smaller tracks mostly and I think that a good solid motor with a really good handling car can outrun his 4 bar with lots of horsepower. I was thinking of building a 383 stroker motor.I want to use Pro-Action Topline heads.Our motor man has a lot of them running right now with good results and they look really good before he even touches them.50cc or 64cc chambers. I want a steel crank and possibly a Lunati cam. 5.7"or 6" rods? Motor man says go with C&A Z rings. What do you guys suggest?? I'd like to hear what some of you experienced racers would do ...keep in mind that my money is limited, this is a one piece at a time motor (UNLESS someone wants to sponser me???).I sure would like to give him a run for his money!! And yes I am gonna drive it ( at least once!!!) LOL Looking for specifics if somebody can give me a tried and tru setup?

jhon hollomon
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 468
posted November 30, 2003 05:58 PM  
Is the track you run normally dry or tacky??

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Just a little crazy!!!!!!

sdhnc29
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 934
posted November 30, 2003 09:07 PM  
What are your engine rules for this class , and what will your engine budget be ? This will ultimately determine your best combo for money spent.

Steve

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Hendren Racing Engines
Rutherfordton , NC
(828)286-0780

knichols
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 11
posted December 02, 2003 04:39 PM  
The tracks we run are 3/8 mile red clay. Most of the time they are pretty wet with some drying over into the race. If I go Super Late Model it is pretty much anything goes. Unlimited cid -2400 lbs; 362cid all aluminum 2300 lbs; the more limited it get the lighter you get to be. 362 cid, flat tappet,flat top pistons, steel block, any steel head , 2150 lbs . If I tried to go Limited Late model it gets real picky. Stock pistons ,stock crank etc. and thats just the engine. I guess I am gonna try for a SLM car. As for budget, like I said earlier that is definately limited. I want to try to build a good quality motor that will last all season without ending up on a street corner ,with a cardboard sign that reads "WILL RACE FOR FOOD"

[This message has been edited by knichols (edited December 02, 2003).]

2nd2none
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted December 02, 2003 05:08 PM  
If you need to be that cheap the best way would be buy a used motor. If you look around hard enough you can find them all over the place...........I have a all steel 360 motor that has been run this season in a UMP modified, 360 sprintcar, and a dirt late model for sale. $3000. Check the sales section for more info on it.

knichols
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 11
posted December 02, 2003 05:50 PM  
Like I said its gotta be one piece at a time. Cant do it all at once. The bit about the sign was for laughs , not to be taken literally.

sdhnc29
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 934
posted December 02, 2003 10:03 PM  
I would suggest looking at the limited late model class , if your looking to be competitive on your limited budget.

If your still set on running Super's,the stock block that you have is not a good foundation to start with on a super late model engine , especially if your looking at producing anything close to competitive horse power and torque in a super. Sounds like your leaning toward an all steel engine from your first post . If so , I'd start with a big bore Dart Little M block (this block can handle just about as much power as you can produce in a naturally aspirated engine), Find a GOOD used 3.340"-3.315" stroke small journal crank (American Made chrome molly crank), and a set of GOOD used 6"-6.040" Carrillo piston guided small journal rods. This will give you a very strong foundation to build on . As for heads I'd use the Pro-Action 14 degree head if legal, or use the NEW Dart Iron Eagle Platinum series heads that will be released after the PRI show this weekend. For a cam I'd suggest calling Dave Crower and have a custom grind done to suit your application . I would use JE pistons with the .043-.043-3mm back cut ring pack with lateral gas porting , regardless of dome or flat top (the zero gap second ring set's that Childs & Albert sell are a total joke! Any race engine builder who is up on current technology should be able to tell you this). These are all pieces that can be bought one at a time , provided that you know exactly what engine combo that your looking to build . All in all this will make a good reliable engine , but it would not be competitive with a 18 degree or SB2.2 engine of the same size most of the time.

Steve

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Hendren Racing Engines
Rutherfordton , NC
(828)286-0780

joeyi07
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 19
posted December 05, 2003 05:02 AM  


WHAT A LADY

joeyi07
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 19
posted December 05, 2003 05:17 AM  

i would let the hendren boys destroke that bad boy happy holidays

WHAT A GAL

knichols
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 11
posted December 06, 2003 08:28 AM  
Thanks Guys. Limited would be a lot cheaper to build. Not as much fun, but cheaper. The rules for this class are 362 CI max including overbore. Stock crank, which I have in my block cast # 3932442 350 cast med journal 3.48" stroke.Which brings up another question, I have never heard of med journal I have only heard people refer to them as small or large journal cranks. MorTec lists alot of them. Is this just a Lg journal for a sbc and Lg journal is just in a large block? Back to the class rules.. No knifing cutting or lifting of crank, cast # must be visible. Any steel rods. (Got a good set of 5.7" 's) Stock type pistons, 2 or 4 eyebrow may be forged. Dont have any 30 over which is all I want to go this time on the block.
Heads cast iron only. No porting, polishing or squaring of ports. 202 in,160 ex Stocks casting or World Products, Dart, etc. Aftermarket heads stock replacement type OK.
Roller rocker arms ok. Angle plug heads with 2.02 valves add 100 lbs Flat top pistons . No titanium valves.
Flat tappet cam, no rollers.
Dist stock type or magneto.
Carb 750 CFM max, 1" spacer allowed.
Any intake.... This is what I gotta be to run Limited late model. This class is pretty competitive so it is doubtful that anybody is actually running this setup. They do alot of whining if you run a half track or better ahead of everyone else and dont won't to pay you. (We know from experience!!) But I've never seen anyone torn down up there. They dont have scales so I dont know why they have all these weight limits if they cant check them anyway! DUH! I live in the redneck capital of the South. LOL So what now??

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