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Author Topic:   HEI Counterweights
eborcim
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 303
posted August 08, 2005 11:54 AM  
Anyone successfully run a locked DUI or other HEI distributor without counterweights? We are looking to increase throttle response on restarts.

mike9
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 72
posted August 08, 2005 01:03 PM  
i run a hei that is locked out i set the timing at 32 degrees and it runs great no starting problems with a 9.5 to 1 comp engine either

ss99
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 120
posted August 08, 2005 04:21 PM  
lock it. The mechanical advance mechanism is a time bomb waiting to blow.

NJantz
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted August 09, 2005 08:08 AM  
ss99- couldn't agree more. lol been there done that.

DangerZoneRacing
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 176
posted August 09, 2005 09:01 AM  
I run my timing at 32 with my HEI. It isnt locked. What are the advantages of running it locked? How do you do it?

JT54
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 170
posted August 09, 2005 09:27 AM  
we have ran it for years locked with no problem ....we take the vacume advance and tack weld the rod to the mounting bracket ,then cut the advance diaphram off .....(Take it off the distributor to weld)....take the gear off the shaft by knocking out the roll pin ,then pull the shaft out of the housing .....take all advance counter weghts and springs off....turn the advance so all the pins are lined up ....weld the plates together ,and you can reassemble....I set my timing at 36 and have no trouble starting on methanol.....(DO NOT WELD ON DISTRIBUTOR WHEN IT IS ASSEMBLED !)....dont want to fry any electronics or screw up the reluctor.....good luck...JT

thrill hill
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 59
posted August 10, 2005 02:17 PM  
We just changed and went to a locked DUI because of counterwieght springs almost stretched out etc. After winning on the first race with it we pulled the cap off and found that one of the nylon screws that holds the rotor on was loose and the other one was broken. Don't really know what kept the engine running til the end. Instructions say not to overtighten the nylon screws. Any ideas? We took regular screws from another rotor and used them. There was no end play in the new DUI and now there is probably .030 play in it. Should a person reshim the end play? Thanks

eborcim
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 303
posted August 26, 2005 08:59 AM  
JT54

What do you mean by "turn the advance so all the pins are lined up"...Turn the advance clockwise until it stops? Should the reluctor points all line up when you do this?

[This message has been edited by eborcim (edited August 26, 2005).]

JT54
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 170
posted August 26, 2005 09:30 AM  
Take the shaft out of the housing...and turn the top plate that the rotor mounts to untill the pins that the springs and counter weights mount to are lined up ......put a weld on each side so you now have one peice.....this works for us ...I dont know if its wright or wrong but it works...good luck.

eborcim
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 303
posted August 26, 2005 12:11 PM  
gotcha..thanks

sc1 racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 419
posted August 26, 2005 01:35 PM  
my distributer shaft got tore up last year in a wreck, and all i did was take a stock housing. put in car removed weights and springs and used jb weld to lock distributer. it is still holding up today 30 some races later. i always center the shaft before locking it.it doesnt matter just lets you be sure to get a good weld or whatever on it..

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