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Author Topic:   Block filler
rickbraley
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 58
posted April 21, 2005 11:39 AM  
While clearancing my 350 4 bolt main block for a 3.75" stroke crank my machine shop informed me that the thickness of the block where the clearancing was done was below an acceptable amount and that they wanted to fill the lower water jacket (below the freeze plug) with block filler to insure the integrity of the block. Has anyone ever heard of this being done? Any second opinions on this will be appreciated.

Thanks.

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted April 21, 2005 12:21 PM  
Pretty common in drag racing. It would prob be alright as long as they dont fill anymore than they have to. It reduces the amount of water in the block so it could affect your cooling. Thats why I wouldnt do any more than they had to.

zeroracing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1876
posted April 21, 2005 12:22 PM  
There was some talk of this topic a while back, do a search in the menu area for block filler.
personally if it is a lakeside motor and making alot of power i would go to a dart block, comp products has them for 1699 i think it is(thier newest add). they have alot of strength, and will take alot of abuse.

dluna
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 334
posted April 21, 2005 04:50 PM  
My 383 has block filler in it just barely past the freeze plugs. After I got everything else lined up around mid season last year, we had no heating problems. (on alky w/ no shroud).

It hasn't been very warm this year, but I have a 180* thermostat in right now and it stays right around 190 the entire race.

So, seems to work ok thus far. I'm really not sure how much it actually helps though.

rickbraley
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 58
posted April 22, 2005 06:34 AM  
Thanks for the replies. Looks like it is more common than I had originally thought so I feel more comfortable with it now. I'll run a really cool thermostat (160) to insure adequate water flow to minimize any affects the reduced capacity might have.

I'd love to have a Dart block but I just don't want to spend the $$ at this time!! Plus, my last 383 lasted over two seasons with a stock block and when it finally failed it wasn't a block issue so I don't feel too compelled to spend the extra $$...

[This message has been edited by rickbraley (edited April 22, 2005).]

brownstone
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 284
posted April 22, 2005 09:29 AM  
This works ok, AS LONG AS YOU DO NOT FILL IT ALL THE WAY UP.
I have a 355 that is filled all the way up. this is ok for short runs in Drag racing and such but not for Oval track. We have tried an oil cooler etc and we can get the water temp down to 180/190. But Oil temp is the problem. It will run below 240 for about 10 laps then it just goes up and we have to shut it down.

Ego Racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 724
posted April 27, 2005 08:24 PM  
quote:
Originally posted by brownstone:
This works ok, AS LONG AS YOU DO NOT FILL IT ALL THE WAY UP.
I have a 355 that is filled all the way up. this is ok for short runs in Drag racing and such but not for Oval track. We have tried an oil cooler etc and we can get the water temp down to 180/190. But Oil temp is the problem. It will run below 240 for about 10 laps then it just goes up and we have to shut it down.

Install an oil cooler inbetween the engine adn the oil filter and run synthetic oil like Royal Purple Racing oil. We had a car jet a nose job and the water temp went over 260 and the oil pegged the guage. THe bearings were all good when we bulled it apart. We thought it was coked after the race, the only thing it could have been is the oil.

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