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Author Topic:   COMP CAMS ???????
Dirt-Tracker
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 182
posted April 05, 2005 07:16 PM  
Hey I ve been running Comp Cams for the past 4 yrs with absolutely no problems. Mainly ran rollers. This year we switch to flat tappet cams to run some IMCA shows and have had nothing but bad luck. We got the whole setup from Comp......cam, lifters, springs. Broke engine in and cam has went flat. Pulled lifters and one is about 1/4" shorter and domed in the middle. Cant keep all the rockers tight or nothing. Is any one else having problems with these cams? Talked to a few guys around here and they say that they had same problems. One guy went threw 3 cams at Boone Supernationals last year. Never had problems with my rollers, but this is frustrating.

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MOD MAN
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 21
posted April 05, 2005 08:22 PM  
Denny it must be me you are talking about on the 3 cams from comp. all in total i had 5 comp cams go down in 2 motors last summer. up till then i have had probabley 30 comp. cams with no problems. i ended up with a JR MOTORSPORTS cam in both motors every thing has been fine since no more comp cams for me 279.99 x 5 to much money and headaches

allan
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 107
posted April 06, 2005 12:20 AM  
ill have to agree that comp is all talk and a lot of advertisement that gives them there credit.i've seen it all to often at the track,motor not running good pull the valve cover two or three valve hardly moving(cam gone flat)ask them what cam and always a comp.not only that, have you ever called them for a cam recommendation? i dont even need to go there.

leapinlizard
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 402
posted April 06, 2005 07:33 AM  
Comp has two good things going here, Marketing and selection.

If your into making real power your paying the extra 25 dollars for custon ground stuff.

It's pretty obvious that with the no. of cams produced, comp would have the most bad apples. I'm not really trying to defend comp here at all. In fact, I've had two flatten themselves in a 454 and a 396 in my race hauler truck. But the fact remains, everyone I know is either unhappy with tech support or bad cams.

What eeks me, is when you call them and ask question's to get to the bottom of what happened they have only one thing to say,
"Must of been something you did because our factory is so good, We never have quality control problems" My *** !

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted April 06, 2005 07:56 AM  
We just put a comp cam in our freshened motor and I have to admit I was a little worried about it. Broke it in with only the outer springs and havnet idled it under 1700 and so far so good. Also using EDM lifters on it too so I am sure that helps.

Engine builder said he has used a couple of them recently and were alright so maybe they have gotten some things straightened out. Originally he was going to use a Reed but said there support was even worse. I think all manufacturers are going to hve trouble once in awhile. The fact that comp makes some many cams plays into. I think some of the blame could prob go to the lifter manufacturers as well. With all the lifter shortage and what all the last few years I think there was also a question as to the quality of the lifters.


I know its a different deal but I have used 3 other comp Xtreme hyd cams in some street engines and they are all fine as well.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited April 06, 2005).]

iowatoolman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 369
posted April 06, 2005 09:15 AM  
i have used comp in the past with good luck but they were all custom now on the other hand DON'T USE EDELBROCK CAMS!!! they have major problems!!! i now use custom cams from chet herbert with great success

drive hard or drive home

eaton89
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 268
posted April 06, 2005 09:25 PM  
I'm fairly new to building race engines (putting them together) and have never had problems with cams going flat untill I started using bigger profile cams and large heavy spring. I used several hyd and flat (solid) cams. I have nocked the lobes off of both. What I have figured out is that either you need to runa 1.4 rocker or run just the outer spring for brake-in and keep the idle above 2000 for 30 min. The spring pressure is pretty high on these race cams and the brakein is usually where it goes flat. It just takes a race or 2 for it to really show up. The first race you adjust the rockers and notice that you had to adjust 1 or 2 rockers a little more then the rest and the next race the motor doesnt run quit as well and when you check them again it is pretty obvious that its gone flat. I'm not saying this is your problem but they can be pretty fussy. This is just my opion and maybe it will help someone reading here so they dont go through the 3 cams I did last year to figure out that what advice I had been getting was good and should have listend. I wish I could afford to go to a racing school but I spent all my money at the "School of hard nocks", I think I recognize several of you from there!! LOL

dukeboyz
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted April 06, 2005 10:30 PM  
Heres what you need to do, any time you are breaking in the a new flat tappet race cam, go down to your local GM dealership and buy yourself 2 pints of E.O.S. Pour some in a container and drop all your lifters in,pour the rest all over the camshaft lobes, run it for however long you'd normally do when firing a new engine,up to operating temp etc. 30 minutes or more, then shut it down and drain, when you put the new oil in it add the other pint of E.O.S. Now don't tell to many of your competitors HA HA!, but that is the BIGGEST KEPT SECRET IN CAMSHAFT BREAK IN PERIODS THAT EVER EXISTED. Oh, it stands for ENGINE OIL SUPPLEMENT. On the bottle however it says E.O.S. Had the same problems with Comp Cams and others, Lunati,Ultradyne etc. No need to run the soft springs during break in with this potion. - Am sure this will help providing you are not starving the top end with too small oil restrictor orfices. (Which can get clogged some times also)

leapinlizard
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 402
posted April 07, 2005 08:06 AM  
There are only three or four company's who grind cams. They sell "White Box" cams to lot's of company's who repackage and sell to you, the consumer. You will notice that Summit Racing, Speedway, Comp, Crane, Isky or whoever have cam specs listed very near others of it's type. All cams that aren't rollers are ground with a small taper to get the tappet rotating, depending on where you measure the cam lobe, inside or outside, you can get slightly different lift's, durations, ect...

Next time your cam shopping, look at how many cams are very close to each other, now look at the brands, Sometime they list a advertise duration rather than at .050 or even 006. I think they do it to throw you off.

Point is if edie has cam problems so does many other white box companys.

odie42
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted April 07, 2005 08:25 AM  
CROWER!

Break in with E.O.S.

brownstone
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 284
posted April 07, 2005 11:26 AM  
We have been using and running Isky cams for many years flat tappet and roller with ZERO problems.
We had WD with Comp and saved a little money for a while however we started having flat cam issues, broken spring concerns, and we longer use them, we have gone back to using primarily Isky.

They dont advertise like Comp, but their product is just better.

waltonjr1
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 516
posted April 07, 2005 04:29 PM  
Im currently running a cam ground by federal mogul. Anyone else run one of these cams? I was a little worried about it but so far so good. JR Motorsports said they never have many problems with them.


dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted April 07, 2005 05:49 PM  
The EOS is loaded with zinc which helps protect the cam during breakin. In the past engine oil contained zinc as well, now the government has taken all the zinc out, so if using conventional oil by itself you have lost that extra protection you used to have. Also you need to make sure you use a heavy enough oil depending on your spring pressure. If you have real heavy springs then 5w30 or 10w30 prob aint gonna cut it. It just wont hold up to the pressure exerted between the cam and lifter face. Using breakin rockers or only the outer springs on the real radical stuff is another safeguard and even though its a pain to mess with, it beats flattening a cam on breakin.

Also remember that the only oil your cam gets is what is thrown off the crank, unles you are running EDM lifters. For that reason I do not reccomend idling at low speed because it cuts down on the oil to the cam. Even in a hobby stock motor I would say 1200 at the bare minimum, in our mod we idle about 1700. That helps keep oil on the cam and on the cylinder walls. It may sound cool to let it lope but its not doing your cam any good.

With some of the stuff thats out now, (especially some of the Comp stuff) its so radical that there isnt as much leeway for error on startup as there used to be. Some of the older cam designs with gentler lobes and less lift were prob a little more user freindly, and easier to breakin.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited April 07, 2005).]

Wheels47
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 170
posted April 07, 2005 07:16 PM  
Just wondering what type and weight of oil would you reccomend for break in and also for racing?

Also from my memory from way back years don't you have to soak the lifters in oil to get oil inside the lifter before installing them..

Thanks for any info.

Wheels

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted April 07, 2005 08:09 PM  
If you are using the EOS then a good 20W50 oil like valvoline VR1 or something should work fine. If not using the EOS then I would look into the valvoline 'non street legal' I believe it is allowed to have zinc in it since it is supposedly for off road use only. Lets them get around the rules for now anyway. After that I personally would run a good synthetic oil after a couple nights on conventional otherwise I'd stick with the same oil i used at breakin.

If you prime the oil pump before firing the engine that will fill the lifters. Run the primer drill until you get oil from all the pushrods then you know it is fully primed. The oil inside also has nothing to do with protecting the cam surface, it gets pumped to the top end. Unless you have the EDM lifters then some of the oil goes to the cam face. The main thing is to make sure you use the right cam lube on the cam and the face of the lifter at installation.

iowatoolman
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 369
posted April 07, 2005 08:10 PM  
i use straight 30 wt oil for break in and 50 wt or 20-50wt for racing i have been using valvoline 50wt racing oil little expensive but no problems changing it after 2-3 races also the more oil the better it don't break down because of heat as fast the other one lots of guys swear by is royal purple (never used it) also a good assembly lube is important try synergyn i think that is how you spell it i have a bottle at the shop i will check

drive hard or drive home

J3
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 188
posted April 12, 2005 10:42 AM  
Make sure you use a good cam lube on cam and lifters during installation. Then use Rotella oil for break in and the first few races. It is mainly a diesel oil but also works fine in gasoline engines. Because it is a diesel oil, it doesn't have the restrictions on it like gasoline engine oils do, so Rotella still has zinc in it. After that, if you like you can run the Rotella synthetic, it also has zinc in it, at an even higher rate than their regular oil. Go to www.rotella.com and you can check it out. ****, I sound like a Rotella sellsman. Hope this helps.
Johnny

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