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Author Topic:   Strange heating problem
CrazyT
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted April 02, 2005 08:08 PM  
The motor is a flat top 355 with double hump heads, quadra jet four barrel intake with the plenum milled out and a rochester 2G carb. We had test and tune today and we ran 5 laps at a time and the engine would slowly climbed to 240-250 by lap five and the water is boiling out. You pull it in and water it down it doesn't seem to cool off much, maybe 220 after a gallon or so of water. The upper radiator hose has pressure on it, and it looks swolen which i assume that is because the water is boiling. I have switched water pumps this year, went to an aftermarket aluminum pump and i switch to 1 to 1 on my pulleys last year i ran a stock overdriven setup. The radiator is a good copper 3 core and it had a 7/8 restrictor in it, i took it out and no change occured. Something strange i remember from last year....i switch to a 2 barrel intake mid season and went from having a slight heating problem with the four barrel intake to not heating at all with the 2 barrel intake. Has anyone ever had an intake cause a heating problem? Oh i almost forgot, i have a new nose piece this year with no holes in it for air, but i have a good shroud and a air dam.

Thanks
Tim

leapinlizard
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 402
posted April 02, 2005 09:22 PM  
timiing can cause problems. Lean mixtures can too. It's possible the two holer intake changed the fuel requrments enough to solve your lean problem. OR fixed a vacuuum leak you didn't know about. I suppose water could have been restricted some where in the intake water jackets and caused a cavitation. But I don't really see that happing.

callmelucky
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 1
posted April 02, 2005 09:56 PM  
Tim,give you something 2 try,could be a air lock in cooling system.make sure your filling point is higher than your motor an hoses,or hoses dont go up than down keep them running smooth.try jacking front of car up when filling if radiators in front. if this dont work check head gaskets are on right, could be restricting coolant flow. good luck.

Donnie Ross
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted April 03, 2005 07:53 AM  
just a ? you said you changed to an after market aluminum pump was it name brand or a claimer style cheapie. reason I ask is I put one of these on and had heating probs went back to stock pump and they went away.the tolerences n the cheapies aren't very good.

CrazyT
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted April 03, 2005 08:51 AM  
The pump i switched to was a CAT brand, i pulled the top hose off the check flow and with a garden hose stuck in the radiator the top hose flowed good water, so i feel like the head gaskets are on correctly. I am still leaning towards switching intakes because i kinda remember a similar problem last year with this intake, when i switched to a 2 barrel intake it went away.

Thanks for the replies

wrenchturner10
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 80
posted April 03, 2005 06:20 PM  
If you don't have any holes in your nose piece, how do you expect air to flow through the radiator? Do you have an air scoop under the nose piece?

CrazyT
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted April 03, 2005 06:29 PM  
Yes i have a air scoop underneath and i have a really good fan shroud. I am not ruling out the nose piece being the problem, but i would like to avoid cutting holes in it. Last year i did have holes in the front, so that will be one of the next things i try.

Thanks for the replies

driver27
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 194
posted April 04, 2005 06:15 AM  
SOme of the aluminum water pumps are for serpentine belts, which run backwards from a regular water pump. Make sure your pump is the correct one, been there done that, acted exactly line yours.

racer2
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 352
posted April 04, 2005 07:22 AM  
a non drilled nose piece is not going to
make it heat up that fast. u have a problem somewhere else.jmo

Donnie Ross
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 264
posted April 04, 2005 07:53 PM  
my nose pice is not opened either also no ducting just a good shroud in a 14 to 406 I actually have to use a stat to get it up to temp.I really think the pump may be your prob. can't hurt to try ,much quicker than the intake.

bncars10sen
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted April 30, 2005 09:36 AM  
Run straight distilled water in your cooling system. Distilled water WILL NOT boil.. I've run distilled water for 4 years now, it never blows over and never gets over 215 degrees.....Just an idea... Good Luck

Ego Racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 724
posted April 30, 2005 10:36 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by bncars10sen:
Run straight distilled water in your cooling system. Distilled water WILL NOT boil.. I've run distilled water for 4 years now, it never blows over and never gets over 215 degrees.....Just an idea... Good Luck

Pure water will not conduct electricity, It will boil. Contaminants in water lower the boiling point. Remove your top and bottom hose and flush it out the best you can. Add botteled water to the system and a water conditioner. Check your pump rotation for your problem as the intake on a race motor should not have water flow through it anyway.
Jack the front of the car up and run it for a while, let it cool and check the water level. Then do it again and see how it acts. If you car has a water neck with the holes for the sensors loosen them and make sure there is water comming out to get rid of any trapped air. We have installed a small fitting like a radiator drain in a water neck befor to help get rid of trapped air. We were not allowed to run the Moroso water neck with the cap on it so we came up with that idea and it worked.

31 Bowtie
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 3
posted April 30, 2005 02:42 PM  
are you running a thermostat or at least a restictor with the high volume with the new water pump the water could be moving through the block too fast to take the heat away try a thermostat see if it helps! good luck

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted April 30, 2005 03:52 PM  
I would just get a goood Aluminum Rad. I ran a big 4 core copper rad and just switching to the alum I dropped 20 degrees. That would be a start then put some holes in the nose to get some flow. If you spray it down and it doesn't cool I would say your raditor isn't good at disapating the heat.

CrazyT
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted May 01, 2005 07:31 AM  
I cut some holes in the nose piece and that fixed the problem. I also changed the intake and it makes it run cooler at an idle but when i went to the track it still over heated until i cut holes in the nose piece.

Thanks Guys

nice_guy_wi
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 120
posted May 01, 2005 05:12 PM  
With a good shroud, and no openings in the nose cone. We had to run support bars in front across the top and bottom of the radiator for the nose cone. Without the support bars ours pulled enough air thru the radiator that it would flex the nose cone in far enough to choke off part of the air flow.

sixwillwin
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 493
posted May 01, 2005 08:00 PM  
i can almost guarantee you have a head gasket out, cracked head or block, it will be a very small crack or leak, I have been done that road several times over the years

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77k
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 174
posted May 01, 2005 10:39 PM  
I had a quad that would cook engines.

Ego Racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 724
posted May 02, 2005 05:37 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by 77k:
I had a quad that would cook engines.

We found a Q-jet once that had several holes in the casting. It was running and when we cleaned it to sent it to our carb guy the coating in ne area came out looking different. When we looked it over we found small holes in the casting, I guess the coating they used to close the holes came off when we cleaned it. We snoothed the surfaces with a thin mix of J-B weld and alcohol and it ran good until it was claimed. The new owner ran it a few times buy I think he sold it now.

bigphillb
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 19
posted May 11, 2005 08:10 AM  
What kind of RPM's are you turning? We foud we had a problem with our waterpump at high RPMs (6000+}. We put a peice of aluminum on the back side to cover the holes on the impeller. The holes will cause cavitation and stop the flow of water at high RPMs. It worked for us (ran 20-30 degrees cooler). Good luck.

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