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Author Topic:   battery cable
dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted March 09, 2005 12:31 PM  
Anybody know how much current the starter pulls when trying to start the car. WE are going to put new battery cables on the car and I am trying to figure out how heavy they need to be.

racerman707
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted March 09, 2005 12:47 PM  
The bigger the better. I use 2 guage.

TEAMPCR
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 238
posted March 09, 2005 12:50 PM  
I ran "00" (but only because I can)

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted March 09, 2005 01:14 PM  
WEll we had 4 guage on the car last year and it seemed to struggle a little. Old car had bigger cables not sure what they were but car turned over fine. This car the cables are a little longer plus smaller. i think around 17-18' total from the battery to the solenoid then to the starter.

Found some 1 ga welding cable locally that is a lot cheaper than battery cable. Was thinking about going that way. Only prob is I'll have to use a clamp on replacement end.

marshalr
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 148
posted March 09, 2005 03:32 PM  
i use welding cable, get the ends put on at the local big rig repair shop.

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Some People Race For A Living; I Live To Race

jay116
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 428
posted March 09, 2005 06:42 PM  
I too used the welding leads....the dry cell battery we have is both top and side post makes it really convenient when hooking them up.

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The opinions,thoughts,and comments of double trouble are that of the car owner and are not affiliated with the driver "Dirt Track Girl" , the track Hill Country Raceway ,or any other outside person or institution

crc1124
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 143
posted March 09, 2005 10:06 PM  
I use welding cabe too. Never had a problem yet. We run our cable from the trunk to the starter. Haven't had any problems with using the clamp on ends,yet. I don't want to jinx me.

NJantz
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 755
posted March 10, 2005 07:35 AM  
I just bought some cable from AFCO. The cable was nice. AFCO claims that their 1/0 gauge cable provides more cranking amp capability, and reduced voltage drop, than some people's 2/0 gauge cable.

But the ends I ordered from them were a waste. Those went to the trash can. They were the screw on type with an expansion plug. Those things are enormous and too big for a racecar.

[This message has been edited by NJantz (edited March 10, 2005).]

Burque
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 98
posted March 10, 2005 12:00 PM  
I run a 2 g. wire I got from a local car audio shop. They sell it by the foot for people running amps in their trunk. It has very fine strands; about 3/4 inch thick with a nice thick red clear coating that is pretty durable. It cost about 24 bucks for about fifteen feet. We also tried 4 g. at first but it would heat up the cable. It got pretty hot when a lot of cranking was needed.

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted March 10, 2005 12:11 PM  
So is 1ga enough? Or should I go 0/1

Seems like most kits i see are 2 or 4ga. That would make me think 1ga should be good, but I want to do it right this time, but I dont want to go overboard and get wire so heavy its hard to work with.

eenfield
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 116
posted March 10, 2005 04:59 PM  
Most parts stores offer ends that can be soldered on...Both the battery end and the load end. Standerd or maybe Pico I think has the ends for the battery, and you can find the others just about anywhere. Just clamp the end into a vice (open end up of coarse) strip the wire back stick it in, support it and solder away. Now this is not a job for a soldering gun! I use a propane bottle torch. Also, dont use acid core solder, use rosin core...BTW I found that it helps some to "tin" the end of the wire with solder before you stick it in and solder it.

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted March 11, 2005 06:47 AM  
I assume everyone agress soldering is better than the crimped on ends?

Anybody ever have trouble with a soldered end coming apart?

Speedracer92
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 70
posted March 11, 2005 06:55 AM  
I agree with Eenfield. Fill the end with solder and stick the cable in there. You can usually find the ends in the same area as the welding cable if you are in the right store.

racerman707
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted March 11, 2005 07:49 AM  
The bigger the better. Use 0 if you can.

ryan
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 776
posted March 11, 2005 09:13 PM  
Ditto on the welding cable

crc1124
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 143
posted March 12, 2005 09:04 AM  
Definitely solder if you can. It only strenthens the cable

dirtbuster
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 2007
posted March 22, 2005 10:46 AM  
Just an update, we had some 1GA cables made up at a local shop. Ended up being about 13' total length and dont have any problems getting the thign to turn over now. I think teh combination of length, small gage(4ga) to start with and a questionable ground all played into the original fact that the car was hard to start. I think the voltage was dropping so much that not only was it hard to get the starter to turn it over but the MSD barely had enough to juice to fire the thing off.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited March 22, 2005).]

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited March 22, 2005).]

sideways
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 715
posted March 23, 2005 09:04 AM  
quote:
Originally posted by eenfield:
Most parts stores offer ends that can be soldered on...Both the battery end and the load end. Standerd or maybe Pico I think has the ends for the battery, and you can find the others just about anywhere. Just clamp the end into a vice (open end up of coarse) strip the wire back stick it in, support it and solder away. Now this is not a job for a soldering gun! I use a propane bottle torch. Also, dont use acid core solder, use rosin core...BTW I found that it helps some to "tin" the end of the wire with solder before you stick it in and solder it.
Ditto.Thats the way we do it here in the big semi truck line of things.we get our ends and rosin core solder from NAPA.The are real goood copper ends.And I take while it is still a little warm and put black tape about 4"up on th cable.

[This message has been edited by sideways (edited March 23, 2005).]

Ego Racing
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 724
posted March 23, 2005 10:26 AM  
Chevy solinoids pull 40-75 amps through the trigger wire and the starter wire. Ford/ remote solinoids pull about 10 amps. The most amps the chevy pulls is through the small wire trying to sull the contacts and bendix in. That is the reason eveyone runs the remote unit and wires the stock to the larger battery wire. With them inline the amp draw is in the area of 12 amps.

Make sure the ground is GOOD! We had a problem in our Late Model and reran the wire and still had the problem, it was the powder coating on the motor mounts and it was keeping the motor from getting a ground. It took us about 4 days to figure it out. Now we run a 1ga from the ground post on the chassis to the guage area and bolt it to the remote sol mounting bolt. We have also run a solid #8 forward and tied it to the frame at several places. This gave us a place to tie other things to as the #8 was strong enough to hold stuff up.

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