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Author Topic:   Distributor question!
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 102
posted February 22, 2005 02:33 AM  
I have a friend that told me he took the mechanical advance weights out of his distributor on his F/S that has a 355 sbc ,9 to 1 comp,etc.. Anyway I was wondering if that wouldn't dump too much timing in too early. I'm not willing to try it yet but what do you all think about it? I would think that it would really be tough to even get the thing to idle at all. I hear all sorts of stories at the track and thought this one was kinda interesting! What do YOU think?

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 730
posted February 22, 2005 04:36 AM  
buy the advance kit from moroso i think, it will let the motor turn over at initial timing then once it starts will advance the timing. basically it has different springs and weights

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 120
posted February 22, 2005 07:47 AM  

There's more to the process than just removing the mechanical advance weights. There are hundreds or more of circle track cars running out there with locked advance plates. Most people do it to prevent the distributor from over-advancing and to prevent problems with broken weight assemblies.

The motor actually idles a bit faster when you've done this. If you choose, here are some things to think about. To prevent damage to your module and other electronics, I think it's best to remove the dist. shaft before you weld up the advance mechanism. Once the weights are removed, remove the dist. gear and slide the shaft out. Center the advance mechanism and tac-weld in place. Put the distributor back together, set your timing, and your done. You'll notice that when you rev the motor, the timing mark does not move. Whatever timing you want in the motor at full throttle is where you'll need to set it.

If you do this, it would be wise to wire your ignition so that you can spin the motor wiht the starter button and then turn the ignition on to start the motor. This will prevent the motor from kicking back so much and makes things easier on your starter.

Good luck

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 333
posted February 22, 2005 08:52 AM  
Good post ss99. We have ours locked and run Accel mod. Runs great. The deal bout "priming" the motor with juice to the distributor is solid advice. A definate good idea. Race on.

if it ain't fun, then don't run

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 138
posted February 22, 2005 03:02 PM  
I have to agree to with the turning the motor over first, then hitting the ignition. I broke two starters this year because I put some cheap advance weight/spring deals in and they stuck open. I'd turn on my ignition, hit the starter and break the nose off the starter because it was fully advanced right off the bat. I'm sure better starters could hold up better, mine is just a stock NAPA auto replacement starter.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 102
posted February 22, 2005 10:16 PM  
In my car I already have the Moroso weights and lightweight springs in it and I get full advance at about 2600rpm if I remember right. I have the vacuum advance plate locked out and run about 34 degrees of timing. It just seemed a little weird not to use the advance weights. And yes - I do crank the motor over and make certain that I have good oil pressure prior to turning on the ignition! Great respones from everyone! I appreciate it! Kent

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 374
posted February 23, 2005 06:38 AM  
Another thing with the weights...running them at 6000 rpm or more the timing will vary a few degrees back and forth. Turning the motor over before flipping the switch puts a little fuel on tops of the pistons which helps the cranking.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 53
posted March 03, 2005 08:51 PM  
I'm a newbie, and I'm a little bit confused on this. Do you still run the vacuum advance? I'm assuming not, but what do you do with it, just leave it floating?? Maybe I'm more confused than I thought...

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 428
posted March 03, 2005 09:07 PM  
I assumed as much, but there are many things I've assumed that have been wrong. Thanks

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 5390
posted March 04, 2005 04:44 PM  
they make plates to replace the vac advance and puts it in the right spot don't just unhook it and leave it then it will not be locked and you'll risk it moving and that could be a realy bad deal

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