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Author Topic:   Short bar starting point
Racer 10
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted July 16, 2002 06:54 AM
We have been playing with a short bar (panhard) on a z-link car had 3" of angle in it, car was erratic especialy over bumps and ruts, mounted in bottom hole on pinion. Also having a hard time getting heat in LR. tire 300LR. 225RR.springs mounted on swing arms.The left side swingarm is at 15* up hill right is at 10*. Pullbar is 17* down hill 1200lb. spring 1.5" travel. this is a dirtworks copy 700lf. 750rf. springs. It seems that everything we do to this car wants to fight us. Any one have any suggestions for a new setup, this sure isn't working, also we got the rear percentage up to 59* and helped a lot but car now weighs 2700lbs. racing ump tracks just can't get bite off corner when slick running 200lbs. lr.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 36
posted July 16, 2002 02:40 PM
DW recommends 8.5 inches up on the frame and second hole from the bottom on the pinion. If you track has ruts and is rough, get rid of the shorty. You will fight it until you sell the me. If your track is smooth nad slick, you can't beat the short bar but otherwise, get the J-bar.

As far as heat in the LR, are you running 200lbs of LR bite??? With your panard bar that high you must not have much body roll and therefore should have no problem on the LR heating up. I am guessing you do not mean that you have 200 lbs LR bite???

Racer 10
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted July 16, 2002 06:09 PM
Yes we run 200lbs. of left rear we droped the short bar down level and the car was easier to drive but made the temp split even higher and have been droping the right rear spring rate down 25lbs. at a time,getting about 2.5" of travel on right rear shock. We even tried running 350lbs of LR. and drove off the corner better, but made it extremely loose in, and tight in middle, had to get the corners just right before picking up the gas or you would have to stab brakes to turn in mid corner sometimes. We tried the reverse front split but from some pictures it looked like the RF.was compressed too much never transfered weight back to rear maybe we need to go up another 100lbs on RF.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 42
posted July 17, 2002 02:33 PM
I'm not what you would call an expert here...BUT, the problem you are describing sounds just like the problem we had last year. We only got to put the car on scales 1 time last year so after awhile our percentages were WAY off and we were up to 250 to 350 LBS of LR and didn't even know it. It turned out that the only way we were not pushing straight into the wall was because of our wheelbase. We were leading the LR by 2". They seemed to balance each other out I guess.
Just something that you maybe could check. We squared up the rear-end this season and get to put the car on scales every week...the car is a rocket now...(well except for on dry-slick ,but we are learning!)

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 7
posted July 19, 2002 11:33 AM
Get rid of your COPY chassis,,,, get a real one.... from DIRTWORKS...

Majic Maker
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted July 24, 2002 09:18 PM
The way to make a short bar work is to run 30lbs of right rear and either move the left tire up a 1 inch or bring the right rear back 1 inch It will not work on a rough track but on a dryslick track its fast! Hope this helps!

Racer 10
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 6
posted July 24, 2002 10:45 PM
Thanks for the responses the left rear was led .5"(tight)put it back square and expected the car to be more free in the middle of the corner but the opposite occured. However as the track slicked off the car got better and better and the rear tire temp split was down to 25* the best it has ever been now need to get it freed up for Qualifying and tacky track maybe the last response of running right rear would be a good place to start when tacky, any other ideas always willing to learn?

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