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Author Topic:   Hydralic clutch---need help???
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 121
posted May 04, 2002 03:45 PM
We have a hyd clutch and need to now how to adjust it? I have bled it and no air shows but we still have not much pedal... It is just barely releasing just before we hit the floor with pedal... Also what is best to use for fluid?? We were told just regular brake fluid.. is this correct?? We are running a b-mod with ford engine and I'm not sure just yet what kind of clutch it is?? Please Help..

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 193
posted May 04, 2002 03:55 PM
I'm guessing that you dont have any shims for the throwout bearing. You'll need to buy shims and shim out the TB. Be sure and not put too many shims in it or you'll burn up the clutch, also you can adjust the actual pedal I'd try this first.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 390
posted May 04, 2002 08:30 PM
the distance from the throw-out to the fingers is tooooo far. that distance needs to be adjusted. If you feel this is adjusted coreectly then I will say you are useing a line from the master to the throw-out that has push on fittings.....this hose will expand when you push the pedal, instead of pushing out the bearing......YOU NEED TO USE A BRAIDED LINE FOR THE CLUTCH...Steel brake line out of the master cylinder then to a braided line........

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 221
posted May 05, 2002 08:05 AM
you can also use plastic brake line for the clutch, ive done that here for yrs, it works great and real easy to plumb too.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 121
posted May 05, 2002 08:41 AM
We already have the braided line installed and it doesn't seem to have anything wrong with it. We made it through the night last night so now we have time to pull it out and see whats going on.

Wonder why things like this just shows up on Saturday morning--LOL--Hmmm That would probably be a neat thread to start.(What have you guys had happen the morning before race day??)

Thanks Wheels

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 26
posted May 05, 2002 12:50 PM
I just installed mine this weekend and it sounds like you have a shim problem. I like to put 3/16" between the throwout bearing and the fingers of the diaphram. Be carefull
so that you don't actually pass the limit of disengagement and start pushing the diaphram too much, you will feel it in the pedal when it starts to go the other way. Had to pull the tranny out 3 times til we goy it where we wanted it.

Artie Perilloux

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 53
posted May 05, 2002 08:20 PM UIN: 42016153
I just had to put one in my car this weekend and what Stokin27 said sounds right. 3/16th should get you started. As for spacing with shims. I started with a low amount of shims then added hydralic cylinder spacers to make it right. Lot easier that way cause they just clamp on.
good luck with getting it going!!
Super 7w Racing

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 36
posted May 06, 2002 07:55 PM
Let me give you the whole story!!!! Most of Wheels47 comments are correct.....more importantly the pedal is bleeding off. If I hold the pedal in you can feel the clutch bleed off and after a few seconds will start moving forward. If I throw it out of gear and pump the pedal it comes right back. We cannot find any fluid leaks whats the story?

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 121
posted May 06, 2002 08:38 PM
Dirt-tracker after doing a little research on the bleeding off I'm thinking there is a kit we may have to put in the cylinder-- or in the throwout bearing down on the clutch. I'm trying to check this out but need to know for sure what we have in there.. Later--Dad--oops wheels

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted May 07, 2002 12:40 PM
If you are not losing fluid, your master (not the T.O. bearing) is leaking internally. I would just put in a new one. Make sure it is the size specified by the T.O. bearing MFG and then use their set-up intructions to properly shim the bearing.

Incedently, this is a perfect oppertunity to install a dry-brake in your clutch hydraulic line if you don't already have one (makes bleeding and engine/tranny swaps much easier).

Note: when rebuilding Hydraulic T.O. bearings or any hydraulic parts, DON"T use brake fluid to lube the o-rings prior to assy (it will make them swell) instead, use assy. lube intended for this application.

Good Luck

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 13
posted May 07, 2002 02:09 PM
I run a Bert now, but I had a similar problem when I ran this setup. How are you bleeding the lines? I was having trouble, but I was bleeding the line like I do brakes (Pump the pedal up then hold it, then open the bleeder).

At the track, I was trying again to bleed the clutch line. A top Late Model driver came over and gave me a hand, he said I was doing it wrong.

The way he did it was like this:

He put his finger over the end of the bleeder, then opened it (while keeping his finger on the bleeder so no air could get in), told me to push the pedal slowly to the floor 1 time. When the pedal reached the floor, he closed the bleeder, I let the pedal come up, and then we started over about 5-7 times.

Why my method didn't work, I don't know, but he fixed it. He obviously knew something I didn't, after that, I always did it that way, and I never had any trouble.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 121
posted May 08, 2002 06:06 PM
C21 thanks bud we will look into this. I think you may be right about the cyl.Thanks for the info.

Racer18-- I am bleeding it like your friend at the track..almost.. I losin the bleeder then have them push the peddle to the floor and hold it down till I tighten the bleeder. I suppose that is correct as it has always worked on brakes for me.. but then I'm not used to doing the clutch. Thanks for the info and I will try this finger trick before we put the new cyl on. thanks wheels

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 40
posted May 11, 2002 10:26 AM
The best remedy for all bleeding and brake problems I have found is an air bleeder. I picked one up on E-Bay for $200.00. If you have never used one, it is awsome. In 20 minutes I can bleed the whole car, including a Bert trans, (And you know how much of a pain those can be) not only does it bleed everything, but it completely replaces all of the fluid and tops them off to the correct level all at once. The best piece of equipment I have ever purchased, because I do 98% of the work on the car by myself. An absolute MUST HAVE TOOL. Also, brake fluids pick up moisture after time and should be replaced periodically, this tool takes all of the work out of that. I also agree you probably have a leak in your master cylinder.

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