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Author Topic:   NEED HELP WITH BAD PUSH
T/10
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 16
posted April 28, 2002 07:56 PM
I have a dw7 with 3 link springs on top of rearend, rubber biscuit pull bar, 200lb. spring on rr,150lr, 650 rf, 650 lf, shocks are 74 lf, 75 rf, 94 rr, 94lr, 57%rear, 52.6%ls, 70lb.lr. Car does good on tacky but in the feature as the track gets dryer the car starts to push, as the race goes on, the worse the push will get. It will get to where you have to almost come to a stop to get the car to turn then it will tail out really bad coming off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dirtracr
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted April 28, 2002 09:00 PM
good one..everything looks pretty normal on your setup..i would check to make sure something is not binding..might be, might not be..if it pushes going in and your using the brakes you might bleed the brakes...i had that happen to me..go in the corner, use the brake a little and as soon as i touch the pedal it would go into a push, bleeding them fixed it...

Greggie
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 66
posted April 28, 2002 10:04 PM
I agree... It sounds like your rear brakes have a little air in the line or something is going into a bind as you burn off fuel and your car raises up. I assume you don't have sliders, so it could be the RR shock. That's all I can come up with.

me.

holeshot
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted April 29, 2002 10:29 AM UIN: 3728
If I am reading your post correctly yuo should put your 200lb spring on the left rear and your 150lb on right rear.

Matt418
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted April 29, 2002 01:19 PM
If your rear brakes check out ok you should probably try what Holeshot has suggested. We run a Hot Chassis with the same 3 link setup you have on a track that is always slick even in the heats. Our weight percentages and left rear bite are close to what you have except we have to run more rear weight (58-59%) to get any forward bite. We run a 150 lb spring RR and 175 LR. Also we generally run 50 lbs stiffer spring on RF than LF.

[This message has been edited by Matt418 (edited April 29, 2002).]

Chad
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 82
posted April 29, 2002 02:49 PM
Don't forget to check the static location of your rearend. If the right side wheelbase is shorter than the left the car will be tight. Also, make sure the angle of your trailing arms is not contributing to the problem by shortening up the right side wheelbase as the car has body roll (this would be caused if the angle is fairly flat). Last, when does the car get tight??? Is it tight through the middle??? Sounds like it. I had this problem, and improved the situation by decreasing the cross weight if it was tight on the throttle. Can also raise the panhard bar, increase stagger, and adjust the trailing arm angle to lengthen the rightside wheelbase as the body rolls. Increase the angle of the right trailing arm to achieve this. All these should loosen you up, but you don't want to go too far and cause a loose conditions. Experiment a little at a time.

dirtracr
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted April 29, 2002 04:01 PM
if hes got a shorter wheelbase on the right side..then when its tacky i would think the car would really push more than on the slick...i dont see it being good when its tacky and then push on the slick, i would think it would be vise-versa..ive got a dw7 and if it pushes in the heat then i know im going to be close in the feature for when it slicks out...any thoughts..

holeshot
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted April 29, 2002 06:58 PM UIN: 3728
with the heavier sring on the rr it will drive off that tire more making the car loose. When the track is wet it has the side bite built in to the track when it is dry it does not so when you are on the gas it gets loose.as far as being to tight geting in while slick it is probably because you are entering to slow because the car is loose. sorry about the spelling

Racer111
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 46
posted April 29, 2002 09:13 PM
When you check your brakes make sure you dont have a craked rotor.A craked rotor pushes the puck in every time it go's by giving you less presure .Causes alot of brake problems.

T/10
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 16
posted April 29, 2002 10:26 PM
Sorry my mistake the 200lb. spring is on the lr. 150 on rr.I just put a new rearend under the car with new rotors. If I can get out in front away from traffic I can hit the corners hard and it is a lot better but in traffic it is hard to keep it from pushing up into other cars. Some other people have told me to keep putting more left rear in the car. I did have a 750lb. sring in the rf, but changed to 650lb. but did not make any noticeable difference in car. The car will never even start to turn on entry and push to about the middle of turn the start tailing out. I think alot of the tailing out might be from having to turn to much to get the car to try to turn. Thanks for all you'r help just need to try to have fixed for this weekend have to run double features and it will be very dry by the last one.

wfoondirt
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 242
posted April 29, 2002 11:40 PM
As the track dries does it get slick or take rubber? Sounds to me like the track is taking rubber with is the reason your car gets tighter. Not too many dirt cars go tight as the track gets slicker. If tight entry is your biggest concern i would try more front stagger and/or more rear brake bias. You may also want to try a stiffer lr spring say 225/250.
As someone mentioned you may want to look at your driving style from heat to feature and if your corner entry is different. Most drivers with a tight car will tail the car out early on a tacky track to get the car to turn through the corner but that doesn't typically work on a slick track. Corner entry is smoother and the car will react different.
I would fix any corner entry issues before i tackled the loose off condition, because entry handling will effect the whole corner.

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