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Author Topic:   Blistered R. Rear
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 66
posted April 24, 2002 09:12 AM
The last time out, the track went slick and I blistered my RR to the point that 240 degrees(2/3) of my tread came off and and the other 1/3 (120 degrees--- circumference, not temp.) stayed on and the tire didn't lose air. I'm running 60% rear and about 50.4% cross. The car is a leaf/mono-leaf w/coil. I don't have a crew, so I can't get temps on tires fast enough to be very accurate, but there is 50 degrees difference between LR & RR after the heats. I was 2nd place in the A about 10 laps in when the tire let go, so the car is not absolutely junk, but I seem to be abusing the tires some (that tire was 4 nights old... BTW,IMCA tires). Will it take care of the problem if I up the cross % or is that just a band-aid on a broken leg?


Can someone point me to the yellow-brick-road so I can go get a brain from the Wizard?

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted April 24, 2002 12:37 PM
You maybe could put some more cross, perhaps a pan hard angle or heigth change and split valve your FR or LR shocks, BUT for a dry slick track but I would say tire management is what you need to work on. Traction is aways limited but on dry slick there is no forgiveness. You'll need to change your line and driving style as the track changes to dry slick. It very easy to smoke that right rear, even if the car is setup well.

Dirt Administrator

Total posts: 5060
posted April 24, 2002 12:41 PM UIN: 16262997
The slicker it gets, the more bite(cross) you have to add. If my car is at 50.4, it will burn the right rear off too.


Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 73
posted April 24, 2002 01:30 PM
I dont know how you run your new tires, but we will take a brand new tire that we want to run in the feature, put it on for hot laps, and run the car as hard as possible. After hot laps we will change the tires for the heat races, and for the feature put the new tire back on. The reason for that is it will run the tire thru a "heating session". Im not saying that is the ultimate way to do it, but we havent blistered any tires. And all of the features that we run are dry slick tracks. Hope it helps a little

Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 3
posted April 25, 2002 01:01 PM
Greg, up the cross to 52%. You might also have to run a lighted RR spring. You just using the right rear too much.


Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 66
posted April 25, 2002 09:47 PM
Thanks everyone! Maybe the road to the wizard won't be so long after all. I sure am going to have to change my style. I had this car so tight one night that I could hardly drive it. I'm certainly not used to having a TIGHT problem. I'm also going to get the VooDoo doll of my race car out of the hands of Danny Wallace.LOL


BTW--- Randy, I'm lovin' this car except for trying to over-think what I need to do, it's treating me well.

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 45
posted April 26, 2002 10:14 PM
Just wondering what you were running for spring rates in the back. My old car(Farren chassis) had the same type suspension. I had a similar problem, it turned out that I had a (mislabeled)heavier spring in the RR than the LR and it would preload the tire. I was always real fast for the first 10 or so, then it would go away. (I basically stumbled on a time trial set-up) -Joe

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 227
posted April 30, 2002 06:47 PM
IMCA sticker tires are not worth a crap on a dry slick track without putting them thru 1 or 2 heat cycles. Dodge Boy said it first.

The Peddler

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