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Author Topic:   Z-link for a modified need help !!!!!!!!!!
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted January 01, 2002 09:12 PM
I have a z-link set-up. I have good forward bit off the corners but going into the corners the car just will not bit. I tends to slide throught the corner. I have been thinking about put a j bar on locking the rearend down and making it a 3 link with a j bar. Will this help my problem or hurt it. Also if i put a j bar on it, will i lose any forward bite. Im in need of help thanks.
PS I run on mainly very dry tracks.

Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 1
posted January 11, 2002 11:44 PM

Try moving your panhard bar down.
This will help your sidebite. If you need
more try going one step lighter on your
RR spring.

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 162
posted January 12, 2002 06:22 AM
Where are the rear springs on the z-link

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 227
posted January 12, 2002 04:57 PM
Most Z-Links ((unless you have nothing to do but work on the car)) have too many adjustment points. Do you run a lift bar or a pull rod. What kind of panhard bar ((long behind or short or "J")).Where are the springs ((on the swing arms or on the axle)).

IMHO a Z-Link is good for the chassis builder
to sell parts for. Convert to a 3 link without coil-over elimanaters. It's a lot simpler.

The Peddler

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 162
posted January 12, 2002 05:46 PM
Peddler why do you think the z-link is alot of work The upper control arms control rear steer and most of the springs are mounted on the rear or in front of the rear I always run a z-link swingarm with the springs mounted on the swingarms and it is really not that bad. I can tighten the car up or loosen it up with the rear controls I get my bite off the pullbar and really don't worry about the lowers very much i have run alot of angle and could not tell that much differce. Of course i run about 15 degrees in the left lower control to tighten the car comeing off the turn But i have figured the shocks on these suspenion is the key to makeing these suspenions work

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 227
posted January 12, 2002 10:31 PM
We had Z-Link that was a constant source of chassis bind due to coil over eliminators,lift bar problems,and swing arm bind due to improper location of spring mounting. This car has been converted to a simple 3-link.

We are not professional racers nor do we have the luxury of owning a fab shop, so the ease of maintenance and simplicity of adjustments with a 3-link suits our racing a lot better.

If a 3_link were not as good as it is, then people like Jammin, Custom performance, HOT chassis, and others would not promote it.

Time for me to shut up.

Thanks for listening
The Peddler

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 242
posted January 14, 2002 03:20 PM
Peddler, it sounds like you had a pourly designed chassis or were misinformed as to proper adjustment.
I personally ran 2 cars last year, one 3-link and one a z-link and the z was consistantly a few tenths faster. I did r&d on the z link for 2 seasons before switching to it full time, mainly because i didn't have the support of a knowledgable builder so i had to learn everything on my own. I agree that the 3-link is simpler to understand but a properly designed and adjusted z-link can be just as consistant. Alot of people get in trouble with z and 4 links because they start making changes without knowing what they are doing.

As far as the original question of loose entry, i typically try to work on slight loose entry problems by brake bias or front stagger. If the car is slightly loose in the middle too i would lower the panhard bar or try a stiffer rf spring/shock. if its good in the middle i would try increasing the panhard bar angle slightly or softer rebound on the lr shock. This is assuming you have a long bar/ls frame mount.

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 21
posted January 14, 2002 03:41 PM
I agree with you WFO. What do the changing the angles of the swing arms and the rear links do, how do the effect the handling of a car, in your opinion. Thanks for your reply.

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