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Author Topic:   spindals
XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 08, 2001 10:38 PM
first modified car,,,,,stevie smith book says 74 to 78 model pinto spindals are light and will work,,at 7.62 tall they are same height as gm spindals i have now,,so i already have long ball joints they require but the pinto spindals i have on a pinto front clip may be later model than 78',,whats the diff beetween 74 to 78' and latter years? will they still work? and a freind says not to use the pinto's because of to great a toe change through supsension travel,,,,any opinions would be great,,,ooh by the way the latter model pintos i have are same 7.62 that the book states the 74 to 78s are,,

[This message has been edited by XMod (edited November 08, 2001).]

KK17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 144
posted November 09, 2001 06:36 PM
The earlier years are shorter by about 3/4 inch and some used drumbrakes(way early years)...there is some bending and cutting required to make them work...if you run IMCA I think they let you run a heim on the outer tie rod end so you should be able to cure the bumpsteer problem otherwise they do have a lot of bump even with major modifications.....

XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 13, 2001 09:33 PM
3/4 shorter in height? or arm legnth? the pintos i have are same height as general motors that were previuosly on the car,,iv never heard of and trimming or bending haveing to be done,,do u mean mid 80's model pinto's can be use but need mods? and 70's models do not?

KK17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 144
posted November 14, 2001 07:24 PM
They are shorter in height....I assume you run a small metric chassis if the heights are the same as you're old spindle...I don't think there is much required to get them to work on your frame....on my full size metric the frame had to be notched and steering box and idler moved to get bumpsteer, tie rod clearance and had to bend steering arms down....as far as I know they stopped making the pinto in 78, the 74-78 are the taller(ones you have) spindles used...if you want the thing to drive decent you will have to make sure you don't have any severe angles(pinto steering arms are shorter thus the reason I had to move box and idler arm) in steering linkages,etc...I don't have any experience with the small metric just with the bigger metric cars(caprice) so I can't say for sure what you'll have to do....

XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 15, 2001 12:27 AM
can u tell me what ball joints u used with them?,,i understand they have to be "tall" which im sure i have now because of the shorter gm's that they were running already,,,but the shafts on these ball joints are to small in diameter

KK17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 144
posted November 16, 2001 07:17 PM
you can use chrysler(small) ***** ins on the upper and the tall GM that afco sells on the lowers(same as 76 chevy 1/2 ton 2wd pu) each one is gonna require some reaming.....basically what you want on the lowers is the spindle shaft(where wheel bearing rides) the same height as your old setup..which that dimension is the same between the pinto and gm spindles but you have to ream the pintos so the chassis "see's" the same dimension....on the uppers you want the same control arm angle as your old setup which again you will probably have to ream..I just used a monoball but that might not be legal....basicallyto do this you should put your car at ride height and measure all dimensions related to spindle centerline and control arm angles with stock parts and then make the pinto stuff fit those dimensions...I almost forgot..if you go too dirtworks website they list moog part numbers for balljoints and tie rod ends ,its for the older fullsize chevys but the ball joints should still work.

XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 21, 2001 12:28 AM
thanks got the part #s,,has anyone ever tried to drill the pinto rotors and use them?? sounds crazy i guess,,but we are not going to want all that much front brake and if we do we can dial it out right??? why would this not be ok to try?

ford5
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 221
posted November 21, 2001 07:18 AM
xmod we have run pinto spindles for years i have two things to say they made pintos till 1980,and we use the rotors all the time for the exact reason you stated you have to drill them 4and1\2 on 5 then buy a5on5 adaptor which also widens your frt end and fyi the bobcat and mustang 2 spindles are the same

XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 21, 2001 09:19 AM
good deal,, are the adapters expensive?? looks like it would be a nice weight gain to use them,,,,will the adapters kill the weight gain?,,,i guess i could just use the 4 1/2 pattern all the way around the car and avoid adapters and have same pattern all around the car? are there 4 1/2 wheels out there??? thanks

tmtrigg4
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 47
posted November 21, 2001 10:23 AM
All of the wheel manufacturers offer 4 1/2 bolt pattern wheels. I run a Dirtworks with this pattern to get away from adapters.

Dirt2race
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 40
posted November 21, 2001 08:15 PM
Also, adaptors do break. I ran a GRT and broke 2 in one year. You also can run the big GM stuff and turn the rotors down and use metric calipers. This requires some work on the spindles, but is well worth it the weight loss. I also believe these spindles are a little stronger than the ford stuff.

alkyholic
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 19
posted November 21, 2001 10:59 PM
I ran the pinto spindles last year and got the rotors from speedway motors to fit. They are also a 4 3/4 bolt pattern. Found them in the speedway hot rod catalog. The rotor is only 9.5 inches. Seemed to work real well and strong

ford5
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 221
posted November 25, 2001 03:19 PM
you can do all you want to a GM spindle and you cant get close to the weight of a pinto one they are very tough too! we've raced them now for yrs they will survive the same as any GM ones. the rotors are also a ton lighter! and the mass is closer to center. this all translates to a huge advantage far as i can tell just my opinion lol

holeshot
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted November 26, 2001 02:22 PM UIN: 3728
I run a harris and the dealer I got the car from said that the bump steer is bad with pinto suff is he missing something or can you get the bump as close as the #2's that I am going to run.

CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 464
posted November 26, 2001 03:55 PM
you can only get the bump close to the #2 spindles if you run the outer strut tube and heim end and space down about a 1 1/2 inch.

XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 26, 2001 05:25 PM
thinking about trying the pinto rotors also,,,,what did you guys do about calipers with the pinto rotors?? i have the pinto calipers but they seem like they might be alittle heavy,,,not sure though and i know from ministock experience that these calipers often try to stick...has anyone used them?....thanks

wfoondirt
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 242
posted November 27, 2001 09:47 AM
Its pretty simple to make a bracket to adapt the small metric caliper to use with the 9" pinto rotor.

XMod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 27, 2001 07:35 PM
what do the small metrics weigh?

Hammer 1
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 52
posted November 30, 2001 07:13 PM
Afco makes a bracket to fit the pinto spindle to be used with a Granada rotor and the GM metric caliper. That's what we use on my Ellis.

holeshot
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted December 05, 2001 11:54 AM UIN: 3728
what about the #1 spindle,I think the rotors are 1" smaller than the #2.how well do these bump and how much more do they wiegh over the pinto suff?

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