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Author Topic:   problems scaling
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 75
posted May 11, 2001 06:36 PM
When scaling a car and say for example the RF RR LF ride heights are good and your Lr height needs to be changed, but its the exact opposite way you want to go to get your Cw or lr bite, where do you go to get the "ball" moving. I've always thought of it as a chair and if you raise 1 corner the opposite is gonna go down and the other 2 go up. I know how weight transfers and where it goes when you put 1 turn in or out but how would you go about massaging it and moving say, 100 lbs from the rr to lr while keeping your ride heights correct. I've always used my lr as a fudge corner and was always a little high or low to get my cw. I guess what I'm looking for is a method to the madness....maybe I already know the answer and just am not absorbing it... hoping you guys can help me out with a seemingly simple question.

Dirt Freak

Total posts: 218
posted May 12, 2001 12:57 AM
Okay, let me see if I can help. People MAY argue this subject.
The ONLY way to move weight from left to right or front to rear is to physically pick something up and carry it to the corner you need the weight at.......move battery, fuel cell, motor, driver......ect.
You say you understand where weight goes when you turn on a weight jack bolt? this only effect diagnal/or cross wieght.
I guess I'm not understanding what you are trying to accomplish.......

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 48
posted May 12, 2001 07:51 AM
I think what you are doing is beyond your spring rates. To maintain your R-H and get the scale to read what you want. Only so much weight can be altered, and like Jeff said, ya gotta move stuff to change weight. Swap some springs (go softer)around to see if you can adjust you R-H and scales to where you want them.

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted May 13, 2001 12:31 AM
The other post were correct in stating that you can't manipulate left side or rear percentage. What you want to change with jack bolts is ride height and or cross wieght. The simplest way, without chasing ride hieghts around your car (which I think was your original question was) would be to set your ride height first. Then do four corner adjustments to set cross, which will not alter ride hieght. If you are close to start with, you may be able to do it with just the front or rear. Depending on the thread pitch of your jack bolts front or eliminators in rear, you may have to put one turn on,one turn off in front, to two turns on two turns off rear as an example. Play around with car on scale and see how many turns make what percent change. This is nice to know when your making changes at the track. Hope this helped to answer your question.

[This message has been edited by neverenoughbrew (edited May 13, 2001).]

Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 75
posted May 13, 2001 03:15 PM
Been having computer problems so I haven't been able to respond...Here's the story. I'm a great procrastinator and 2 nights before the opener I got my car on the scales....over the winter I hadn't changed anything as far as weight dist or springs. I had my ride heights right on but when I checked my weights I was way off. The lf was 200lbs heavy and I had 80 lbs rr instead of 180lr bite. Finally after hours of chasing my tail I finally got close to what I had last year. I checked my springs free height, checked for binding suspension, etc,etc. I guess "never enough brew" is on the path I was looking for. I know I didn't explain to well. I can talk better than I can type....I guess I was looking for a sure fire method for moving weight around in an orderly fashio n. I know you can't change ls or rw without moving ballast but you can manipulate corner weights. Thanks

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