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Author Topic:   BEST TRANNY SET UP??
A2KY2K88
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 58
posted January 21, 2001 10:46 PM
Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best tranny set up for an IMCA mod. I had too many problems cracking glides...

dirtrackracer
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 26
posted January 22, 2001 11:45 AM
Check private message.

MOD RACER#93
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 251
posted January 22, 2001 08:17 PM
Im not to familiar with IMCA rules, we run UMP, but for what it's worth, after having probs with glides I went with a RAM type coupler, and a steel stock car bellhousing, with a saginaw 3 speed. I ran it direct in 3rd(started in gear cause never got around to hooking up clutch meckanism). Did this for half a season...sure beat blowing the glides at the big shows...

Limited5
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 141
posted January 22, 2001 08:55 PM
Are you guys cracking the case or bellhousings? I've run glides since the early 80's with no problems at all. I've run em in mods, latemodels and now my limited late. You gotta let em hang at the rear with no crossmember, run the extended dowel pins and watch that the yoke never contacts the rearseal area. I currently run a glide from JW Racing Transmissions with the Ultra Bell. The Ultra Bell is a much thicker piece and will withstand alot of abuse. Glides have such an advantage over others especially on restarts while leading. I change fluid every 4th race and use a good cooler. A bronze filter is also a good choice due to the fact you can clean it and get good life from it, fiber filters need to be disgarded and replaced when servicing fluid. I also use the 9 oz. shifter with positive detents from Performance Bodies that eliminates over shifts. The JW unit also has an electric neutral feature that is pretty trick. It utilizes a button switch that you simply press when shifting to reverse or into low initializing movement. The car will only "creep" while the switch is engaged allowing smooth engagement, and then locks solidly into gear when released. Also remember that 1/4" endplay is critical to the drive so that pump gear failure is reduced. Do this and never try to load the car onto your trailer and you should be just fine.

tls88mod
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 24
posted January 22, 2001 09:44 PM
I use a muncie alum. 4 speed with 1st & 2nd gear taken out and a 5.5" triple disc clutch. The muncie trany is harder to find but quite a bit lighter than the cast iron 3 speed. They are very reliable, I've been running the same trany for the last 4 or 5 years. I've seen a lot of guys leading a race and drop out because of automatic trany failure. Like they say "to finish first you must first finish"

wfoondirt
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 142
posted January 22, 2001 10:02 PM
Personally i like the bert type transmissions, although i dont beleive they are imca legal anymore. I have used the same bert for 5 years with zero problems, i change the one quart of fluid weekly and replace the clutches in the off season, though you could probably go 3 years on the clutches if you dont abuse them, i usually get bored in the winter and replace them anyhow.

7a
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 41
posted January 22, 2001 10:04 PM
we run a sagenaw good strong tranny and you can find them anywere

A2KY2K88
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 58
posted January 22, 2001 10:48 PM
I AM CRACKING THE BELLHOUSING AREA. I DO NOT RUN A CROSS-MEMBER, JUST A MIDPLATE. AT FIRST, I DID NOT HAVE THE RIGHT LENGTH DRIVE SHAFT AND WAS RIPPING THE TRANNY'S OUT. NOW, THERE IS SO MUCH TORQUE, ITS CRACKING THE BELLHOUSINGS. IS THERE ANY WAY TO CORRECT THIS?? I APPRECIATE EVERYONES INPUT SO FAR..NOW HOW ABOUT THOSE SHOCK SET-UP SECRETS.........

MOD RACER#93
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 251
posted January 23, 2001 07:15 PM
I was not cracking bellhousings on my glide. I dont use a rear crossmember. The reason I canned them is because I had entered a race that cost me...well lets just say I didnt register early. Heat race I was on front row outside. Went into 1, everybody passed me. Car was bad pushing. Got back into pits car would barely move fluid was burnt clutchpack gone. This was not the first time this had happend...It was a 2 night show, went home and pulled my stock car stuff out(ram coupler and 3-speed) thats really not legal in stock but dont tell..hehe..and put it in. Went back the next day, ran B, qualified for feature, out of 40 cars they took 24. Ran awsome, liked direct hookup, halfway through, got into crash and finished in back...thats racin...Havnt run a glide since. Now I run a BRINN, but like wfo said I dont think their legal in IMCA...too bad though...

p.s. I checked my private message but there wasnt anything there...lol.
p.p.s. I'll post my shock secrets on the other topic, just let me figure out what they are...lol.

[This message has been edited by MOD RACER#93 (edited January 23, 2001).]

Pa FastBoys0
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 9
posted January 24, 2001 12:43 AM
We use a Bert and a Brinn in are mod but i don't think they are legal in IMCA yet.

GnarlyCar
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 96
posted January 24, 2001 04:10 PM
4 years of modified racing with the same powerglide. Never even had a spare til last year, and I only needed it because the input shaft in the first one let go. Spent for a stronger input shaft this time, and don't expect any more trouble.
I've heard as many guys say they hate them as those that love them.. It's gotta be something in how they're prepared.

Chalk me up to the column of guys who swear by them..

my $.02,
Matt

bbracer17
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 168
posted January 24, 2001 06:14 PM
I've heard good and bad about Power Glides but I just bolted one in my car to try so I guess I'll let you know later. One good thing I can say is that there is about a 60 lbs savings by using a glide over a saginaw steel housing, and 7 1/4 Quartermaster clutch.

MOD RACER#93
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 251
posted January 24, 2001 09:14 PM
I'll agree that if you CANNOT run a Bert or Brinn type trans you should run a glide. I did not have much money invested in the one I had so I really can't complain too much...Another thing is that now when I think back if I had a cooler it might have lasted longer...I don't know...I just was tired of messin with em. Then like you say the saginaw's were killin me in weight, everyone was going Brinn, so that the way I went...Follow the leader I guess...lol. The aluminum munci would be alright but where the heck are ya gonna find one of those, that the guy selling doesn't know what he's got...I never had a problem with glides cracking bellhousing's, I think this may be realated to some kind of misalignment or tension, chassis may be twisted...I dont know, your chassis may be new...Only one I have seen BUST a bell housing was a guy was loading his car on the trailer and the DEEP pan he had caught the trailer, and BANG busted bellhousing...bummer...

team49
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 30
posted January 24, 2001 10:07 PM
At the end of the 99 race season I let someone talk me into trying a powerglide by a well known supplier, well the 3rd night out I went into turn one under the leader and had him set up for the picking ,but ,when I got back on the gas the car would not go. I rolled into the pits to find out that the trans had exploded the tail section,ripped the driveshaft in half. The yoke and part of the trans went through the interior and out the window net,cutting me up in the process. I have the trans on my workbench as A reminder of what not to do. I suggest either a brinn(because it uses the same size driveshaft as a muncie or sag). I currently use a muncie with 2 gears removed and a tilton ulgc bellhousing setup. This setup has not given me one moments problem.

------------------

danfox99
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 83
posted January 26, 2001 09:51 AM
quote:
Originally posted by A2KY2K88:
Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best tranny set up for an IMCA mod. I had too many problems cracking glides...

the only power glide i have used was back in 83 my rokie yr in street stock's won championship.this tr will be first yr in a mod and we are going to use are late model stuff richmond t-10 with the tilton stuff. costly i know but bulit proof.

GnarlyCar
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 96
posted January 26, 2001 09:54 AM
Team 49,
If I was a betting man, I'd put money on a driveshaft failure rather than a tranny failure in that case. If your drive shaft is out of balance and your front u-joint let go, that would send the yoke off through the cockpit, and tear up the tail section in the process. There's just nothing in the tail section of the tranny to explode like that. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I think there could be other things to consider.

food for thought,
Matt

team49
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 30
posted January 26, 2001 02:25 PM
Matt ,
It wasn't driveshaft failure because we found the yoke,u-joint and 11" of driveshaft in the aircleaner of a car that was behind me. I'd rather not take the chance,besides it cost me to many stitches. I had thought that maybe to much movement of the rear had pulled the yoke out just far enough to cause a bind but who knows.
Later!
Wayne

A2KY2K88
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 58
posted January 26, 2001 04:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by team49:
Matt ,
It wasn't driveshaft failure because we found the yoke,u-joint and 11" of driveshaft in the aircleaner of a car that was behind me. I'd rather not take the chance,besides it cost me to many stitches. I had thought that maybe to much movement of the rear had pulled the yoke out just far enough to cause a bind but who knows.
Later!
Wayne

TEAM 49,

THATS EXACTLY WHAT WAS HAPPENING TO ME AT FIRST. I HAD A LONGER YOKE MADE, AND I REPLACED THE BAD 90/10 SHOCK. WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS, THE REAR UNLOADED SO MUCH THAT IT PULLED THE SHAFT OUT SO IT BINDED AND BROKE. I GOT LUCKY AND DID NOT GET HURT. LONGER YOKE FIXED THAT PROBLEM ALONG WITH THE NEW SHOCK. I JUST CANT FIGURE OUT WHY THE BELLHOUSING IS CRACKING.

4ord
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 34
posted January 26, 2001 08:41 PM
A2KY2K88,
Ran powerglides for 10 years before switching to Brinn a couple of years ago. Never broke a case, but we always ran a crossmember with a stock [rubber] mount. I know some of the others say they are not neccesary, but think of all that weight hanging off 6 bellhousing bolts. [especially on a rough track]
Just my opinion.

quickrick01
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 27
posted January 26, 2001 10:23 PM
Where did you get the longer yoke? I could use one, our 4-bar moves alot.

Strokin3
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 68
posted January 27, 2001 06:59 PM
I,d like to know where to get the longer
yolk too. I know the mod rules don't allow
it probably as our rules are not to clear,
we are going to install a Richmond Quick
2 + 2 quick change transmission.

quickrick01
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 27
posted January 27, 2001 10:14 PM
I found it, Colman Racing about $80.00

KK17
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 75
posted January 28, 2001 10:26 AM
Check out Burtbrownracingtrans.com. I guess he has plans for a rear trans mount cradle that bolts to the bellhousing bolts. It might help with cracking cases?

dirt mod 70
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted January 28, 2001 09:43 PM
there are 3 of us running identicle type cars.i run a 5.5 tilton/saginaw 3sp. they ran powerglides.between the two of them they wrecked the trans 11 times. they were leading 3 features when the trans let go.if your car is hooked up hard the powerglides dont hold up.i spent 2,000.00 on my set-up. they spent over 3,000.00 and lost how much in winnings and those valuble imca national points.they wrecked there trannys several different ways....twisted input shaft off was the most common....never busted a case though.they bought the hardened input shaft and it didnt help. NOW THEY BOTH RUN THE SAME SET-UP I DO WITH NO PROBLEMS!!!!!!!
I'll stick with bullet proof.....why take the risk???

jklostermann
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 45
posted February 06, 2001 12:31 PM
Berts are bullet proof! If imca would allow them it would be the only way for you to go!

cranesracing
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 23
posted February 08, 2001 05:36 PM UIN: 27737824
I ran a powerglide in a bomber for about 5 years and only broke 1 tailshaft when the rearend broke lose.never had anyother problems.I run a saginaw 3sp with a 10,000rpm 7.5" kevlar & composite clutch and flywheel they only weight 12.5lbs in my mod

MOD RACER#93
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 251
posted February 08, 2001 07:53 PM
I also ran a glide in my stock for 2 years. I ran a converter, and ran it in LOW. Also a good cooler. Never had a problem. Still have both of them in the shop. Ones a 1.76, the other is a 1.82 . The only problem I had with them in my mod, was I didn't run a converter, and no cooler. Also It worked off DRIVE the clutch pack. I probably should have ran a cooler. But sheeesh thats too much trouble, for a mod trans. You got that extra weight hanging there. Lines to deal with.

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