Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   want to get started and i need some help!
wv_late_model_fan
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 27
posted October 19, 2000 09:44 PM
hi, my name is craig ****ens, i am from rock creek w.va. and i want to get started in racing. i need some tips on purchasing a car and exactly what i should do when i get it. as you can see i have no clue of what to do! if you can help me or if you are in the area and can help, reply to this or e-mail me at: craigie_55@hotmail.com

jammin
Dirt Administrator

Total posts: 3279
posted October 20, 2000 04:19 AM UIN: 16262997
What kind of racing are you wanting to participate in?

Street Stock I am presuming....since you posted it here.

[This message has been edited by jammin (edited October 20, 2000).]

VIPER000
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 151
posted October 20, 2000 07:04 AM
FIRST OFF WHICH TRACK ARE YOU CONSIDERING RUNNING AT. SECOND GET A COPY OF THAT TRACKS RULES. I AM FAMILIAR WITH I-77(WV) RULES AND WILL GIVE U SOME SUGESTIONS BASED ON THOSE RULES. FIRST OFF AS FAR AS CAR TYPE LATE 70'S CAMARO'S OR FIREBIRDS ARE BEST IF PERMITED AT YOUR TRACK THEIR LOW CENTER OF GRAVITY AND SPORTY SUSPENSION HELP. AS FAR AS POWER PLANT CHEVY 350 OR 400 ARE A GOOD PLACE TO START. BE CARFUL ABOUT THE PONTIAC ENGINES THEY ARE EXPENSIVE TO BUILD AND USED PERFORMANCE PARTS ARE HARD TO FIND. TRY TO HOOKUP WITH SOMEONE AT THE LOCAL TRACK AND GET THEM TO GIVE YOU SOME SPECIFIC HELP. THE BEST THINGS I EVER LEARNED WAS WHAT MISTAKES OTHERS HAD MADE NOT WHAT THEY HAD DONE RIGHT. THE RIGHT STUFF WILL HELP PERFORMANCE BUT THE WRONG STUFF WILL COST $$$$$. AS FAR AS INITIAL CONDITION OF THE CAR DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE SHEET METAL IT WILL BE RUINED IN 6MO'S ANYWAY. AS LONG AS THE MECHANICAL PARTS ARE OK YOUR OK. BEST PLACE TO LOOK IS SMALL LOCAL JUNK YARDS OR LOCAL AD BULITIN I BOUGHT MY FIRST CAR FOR $300 WITH OPERATIONAL ENGINE TRANY REAREND FULL OF RUST BUT SPEND MAYBE $20 IN RIVITS AND SHEET METAL TO FIX IT. AS FAR AS ENGINE MAKE SHORE THE BOTTOM END IS SOLID AND WORK ON THE TOP END. AT FIRST DON'T WORRY ABOUT PISTONS AND SUCH GO STOCK TRY TO USE AN EXISTING SHORT BLOCK. GET A CAM HEADS INTAKE AND GO FOR IT. YOU CAN RUN A STOCK INTAKE WITH A QJET FOR A WHILE BUT AN IMPROVED INTAKE WILL REALY HELP AS SOON AS $ PERMIT ITS AN EASY SWITCH. ALSO LEARN HOW TO WELD I HAVE A LINCOLN WELD PACK 100 AND DO ALL MY WELDING WITH IT. FOR THE SIZE OF WELDING YOU WILL NEED IT WORKS GREAT. FINALY EXPECT THE EXPENSE. IT COST ME $3500 TO GET STARTED INCLUDING ALL EQUIPMENT NEEDED THIS IS JUST TO GET ON THE TRACK.

[This message has been edited by VIPER000 (edited October 20, 2000).]

VIPER000
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 151
posted October 20, 2000 10:53 AM
HAD A FEW MORE COMMENTS ON THE CAR FOR YOU. NOW BEAR IN MIND YOU WILL NEED TO CHECK YOUR LOCAL RULES FIRST SOME OF THESE RECOMENDATIONS ARE NOT LEGAL AT ALL TRACKS AND ONCE DONE CAN'T BE UNDONE. FIRST THING IS OF COURSE STRIP THE CAR IF IT DOES NOT MAKE THE CAR STRONGER OR FASTER TEAR IT OFF. TRY TO SELL SOME PARTS FOR SOME EXTRA CASH (EX COMPRSEORS, SEATS, RADIOS). NEXT BLOCK THE CAR UP SO YOU CAN GET UNDER IT AND TIE THE FRONT FRAME SECTION TO THE REAR UNIBODY WITH SAY 2X4 BOX TUBING (WELD DON'T BOLT) IF YOUR LOCAL RULES PERMIT TRY TO EXTEND THIS TUBING UP AND OVER REAR AXEL TO FORM A FULL FRAME. NOW THE TRICKIE PART PLACE BLOCKS EVERY FT OR SO ALLONG THE FRAME SUB FRAME SUSPENSION SO THE THE CARS WEIGHT IS EVENLY DISTRIBUTED. NOW TAKE A TORCH AND CUT THE TOP OFF THE CAR. YOU NEED TO BE SORE THE WEIGHT IS DISTRIBUTED SO THAT THE CAR WILL NOT FLEX WHEN YOU DO THIS. SAW A CAR ONCE THAT WHEN THE GUY CUT THE TOP OFF AND SAT IT BACK DOWN ON THERE WAS A 2" GAP FROM THE CAR SAGING (BAD). AFTER YOU HAVE THE TOP OFF START CUTTING OUT THE INSIDE OF THE CAR. ALL YOU WANT IS THE FLOOR PAN FIREWALL AND OUTER SHELL. ONCE EVERYTHING IS GONE START BUILDING A CAGE. FIND ANOTHER CAR TO LOOK AT FOR IDEAS.

Back to the Archives