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Author Topic:   Gutting the racecar??
UFnARacing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 68
posted January 27, 2003 08:45 AM
I'm in the process of putting my car on a diet. I gutted the hood last year, now I'm doing the roof and trunk, thinking of moving up to next class. Anyway, does anyone have any tips on how to separate the inner metal from the outer? GM uses a rubber glue like stuff, when I did my hood I just pryed it apart, but they're would seem to be a better way. Maybe a torch? Prying it apart makes a lot of dents on the outer trunk, roof, hood etc.

Randy

tyfyter
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 13
posted January 27, 2003 09:58 AM
Good guestion. I'd like to hear some ideas on that too.

CUSTOMPERFORMANCE
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 639
posted January 27, 2003 10:04 AM
This may work on hoods as well as trunk lids but what i do for doors is use a grinder with at least a 4 inch wheel and grind thru the rolled edge on the doors and the inner shell and the skin will come apart nice and easy without denting the panel. Using the torch will warp the metal quite a bit.

istock59
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 237
posted January 27, 2003 10:51 AM
I use one of those Wagner heat guns that you can buy at HomeDepot. Like a hair-dry, but much hotter.

A few seconds of heat on the metal where the rubber is, and it pulls right apart. No dents.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted January 27, 2003 12:07 PM UIN: 54865418
not sure about the hood and trucknk we aren't alowed to gut those but like custom siad we do the doors but we just use a sawzall then the wwhole inner part comes out we also cut along the rocker panels there is double layer metal that you can cut out saves a few puonds

UFnARacing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 68
posted January 27, 2003 12:18 PM
I happen to have a heat gun here at work. I assumed it would take more heat than that, but I'll have to give it a try. Do you apply the heat from the inner shell side or from the outer panel (exterior) side?

I love this board for questions like this!

Randy

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted January 27, 2003 12:29 PM
Use the heat gun on the outside that way the glue stays with the inner frame. It's a two man job with one guy gently pulling the thing apart.

istock59
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 237
posted January 27, 2003 12:30 PM
I did it from the inner shell side on my hood. I also didn't try to remove it all at once. Heat up a couple spots, pop them loose and cut off the scrap with snips. Repeat as necessary.


fastrack1
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 73
posted January 27, 2003 08:45 PM
WELL I MUST SAY THAT I CAN HULL A CAR WITH A SAWS ALL OR JIG SAW WITH VERY LITTLE USE OF A TORCH A SAWSALL IS ONE OF THE BEST THINGS A RACER CAN BUY FOR THE MONEY AND YES THE BEST WAY TO SEPERATE THE SHELLS IS APPLY HEAT OPPOSITE THE BODY SKIN AND ANOTHER IDEA I CAME UP WITH IS GRIND THE EDGES OF THE DOORS AND FENDER SMOOTH AND POP RIVET TOGETHER WITH THE GREAT PLASTIC WE ALL USE JUST LIKE FIBER GLASS OR ALUMINUM BODY HANGING BEEN DOING THIS FOR 15 YRS ON STEEL BODY CARS AND NO PROBLEM JUST WHEN U MESS UP A DOOR ETC GET THE DRILL OUT THE RIVETS AND U HAVE NO MESS I CAN REMOVE MY ENTIRE BODY WITH A WRENCH AND DRILL

Kent
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 24
posted January 28, 2003 09:41 PM
I am just about done building my first race car and I removed ALL of the interior sheetmetal from the car and I found that DeWalt makes a 4 1/2" cutoff blade that is very, very thin and does a nice job of cutting without alot of heat buildup. The only problem is that the cutoff discs do not last very long. I used a hacksaw to cut off the windowpost and used my grinder with one of the cutoff disc to cut the rest of the roof off of the car. The adhesive on the roof bracing, hood, and trunk lid was fairly easy to bust loose by using a very sharp putty knife and a hammer! When I decided to build a race car I didn't really know what I was getting into until I went and examined a friends car ( During daylight hours ) And wow was I suprised at the amount of work that needs to be done. I have taken great pride and have had alot of enjoyment and I know you will too ! Good luck! Kent

dirtracer7
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 106
posted January 30, 2003 07:52 PM
Have heard of people setting dry ice on th floor pan get rid of the sound deadning on it .freeze it up smack and it breaks .Dont know if it will work on roofs or hoods

glen73
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 25
posted February 01, 2003 09:09 PM
i use a torch when i gut a car,i use it to cut the body off,and to cutt everything out of the inside,i have learned that it do take much heat at all to get the rubber off,usually when ya get to cutting the heat takes care of the glue,and it can warp the metal,ya gotta be carefull.

bryanb30
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 98
posted February 01, 2003 09:23 PM
how much do you guys cut out of the dash? i have a camaro and i thought about gutting the dash out completely, like all ill have left is a firewall but then id have to put racing pedals in wont i? because the stock pedals all mount up in the dash .. sounds like a lot of work, but it sure would lighten it up wouldnt it!!!!!!!

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted February 03, 2003 10:26 AM
quote:
Originally posted by bryanb30:
how much do you guys cut out of the dash? i have a camaro and i thought about gutting the dash out completely, like all ill have left is a firewall but then id have to put racing pedals in wont i? because the stock pedals all mount up in the dash .. sounds like a lot of work, but it sure would lighten it up wouldnt it!!!!!!!

If you remove the full dash in a Camaro (we're talking everything except the firewall ), you can splice a piece of 2" (I'm pretty sure it is 2", maybe 1 size smaller)square tubing into the stock pedal mount. .095 or .125 wall S/B fine.

Cut the stock pedal mount between the point where the pedal are attached and .... where the mount flattens out (pick a point that is most similar to the size of the square tube). The other end of the square tube attaches to your roll cage's dash bar.

I haven't done this for years, but I seem to recall that you need to cut a relief in the tube at the end attached to the stock bracket .... for brake bedal return clearance.

When all is done, make sure the firewall does not flex during hard braking ... if it does, add support from the front hoop to the firewall (at or near the master).

c21

DirtDobber
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted February 03, 2003 12:47 PM
We just did the torch thang and the rubber poped right off. AND it gave us this cool looking burnt paint spots. - - I may just spray clear coat over this and run it. Hey it's different.
I will say it is from the same aliens that do crop circles

fastrack1
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 73
posted February 03, 2003 08:23 PM
HEY ON THE FIREWALL I ALWAYS LEAVE ABOUT 1 IN FROM THE FIRE WALL LIP AT THE TOP EVERYTHING ELSE GOES THIS IS TO HAVE SOMETHING TO RIVET TO FOR THE DECKING U CAN COME OF THE LEFT HOOP BAR WITH A PIECE OF 2/1 OR 3 LIGHT WEIGHT ANGLE IRON MOUNT THE BACK OF THE ORGINAL PEDAL TO IT CUT A HOLE FOR THE MASTER CYLINDER AND ESPECIALLY IF U MOVE THE PEDALS BACK YOU CAN HANG THE FRONT TO THE CROSS BAR WHERE THE STEERING MOUNTS THIS PUTS THE MASTER CYL INSIDE THE CAR AND OUT OF THE WAY WHEN UNDER THE HOOD JUST USE A DOOR LIKE THE LATEMODELS WHEN U NEED TO WORK IN THAT AREA AND IF U REALLY WANT TO MESS WITH THE TECH PEOPLE RIVET THIN ALUMINIUM ACROSS THE FIREWALL TO MAKE THEM THINK ITS NOT ORIGINAL

[This message has been edited by fastrack1 (edited February 03, 2003).]

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