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Author Topic:   Rear Bite?
racinfool
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted November 07, 2002 05:02 PM
Please clear up for me what is meant by 'REAR BITE'? Is it rear weight split (difference between LR and RR)? Thanks!

CLBaker25
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 29
posted November 07, 2002 05:43 PM
Rear bite is the number of pounds more the left rear is over the right rear. Normally this makes a car have more forward bite, and also usually makes a car harder to turn if the difference between the wheels is too great.

Corey

Eljojo
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 273
posted November 07, 2002 05:57 PM
Bite can also be measured in inches. The old guys will put a socket on a floorjack and center it under the rear end, and raise the car off the ground. The amount of clearance between the right rear tire and the ground at the point when the left just leaves the ground is called "bite". I've known guys to run as much as 6 or 7 inches.

jammin
Dirt Administrator

Total posts: 5556
posted November 07, 2002 06:00 PM UIN: 16262997
What if the leaves are bent or unsprung? Or maybe the shackles are bound up?

racinfool
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted November 07, 2002 08:01 PM
Good question Jammin, that would probably effect both the scaled measurments as well as the 'jack it up' and measure method.

Also, you just made me think of another question I have. Just how tight do you tighten.... 1) Rear Shakles 2) Forward leaf spring mounting bolts 3) Front A-arms????

I'm sure once you "have the feel" it's easy, but that first time and with no one to help you that knows!!!?!

[This message has been edited by racinfool (edited November 07, 2002).]

racinfool
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted November 07, 2002 08:14 PM
When scaling a car I beleive you are to disconnect all the shocks and bounce first.

What about when you do the 'jack it up' method....do you disconnect the rear shocks?....seems to me that would make a difference.

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted November 08, 2002 11:05 AM
quote:
Originally posted by racinfool:
Good question Jammin, that would probably effect both the scaled measurments as well as the 'jack it up' and measure method.

Also, you just made me think of another question I have. Just how tight do you tighten.... 1) Rear Shakles 2) Forward leaf spring mounting bolts 3) Front A-arms????

I'm sure once you "have the feel" it's easy, but that first time and with no one to help you that knows!!!?!

[This message has been edited by racinfool (edited November 07, 2002).]


Not so important is how much you tighten as where you tighten. If you are using stock type bushings, you should leave them slightly sloppy (during assembly)and them tighten them down when the car is sitting (and fully loaded) at ride height.
nut/bolt torque values given in the shop manual should be just fine.

On a side note, those using steel bushings on their front uppers should keep in mind .... that depending on what their spacer stacks look like, overtightening the nuts securing the cross-shaft can deform the shaft and introduce bushing bind. A good way to define the torque limit here is to separate the upper balljoint from the spindle and routinely cycle the arm up and down as you torque the nuts. ... of course this seems like a whole lot of bother, but a sticky upper A is a lot of bother too. Once you get a good feel for the proper torque value you need not go thru all of this bother with every camber/caster change.

c21


Eljojo
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 273
posted November 08, 2002 05:16 PM
When I scale my (gulp) Late model Stock, It's got coilovers on it--now there's a delimma!
I've never removed the shocks from any of my street stocks. I built some wooden pads the same height as my scale pads and roll the car onto them make any changes nessecary. I then bounce the bajeezus out of the suspension before rollong back onto the scale pads.

go4win
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 61
posted November 10, 2002 12:17 AM
i never undo the shocks for one simple reason; they are connected when the car is
being raced. i do check them regularly for
dents,"blue spots",etc.
hope this helps

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted November 11, 2002 10:29 AM
We leave the shock connected as well. When scaling,we jounce the car, all 4 corners, (same order every time... LF,LR,RR,RF)before logging any corner values (heights & weights).

c21

dirtbuster
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 353
posted November 15, 2002 09:53 AM
We do unhook the shocks every time we scale but that is so we can check them for binding while we are at it. I would hate to have a shock drag and not let the cars weight sit on the springs like its supposed to.

As long as your shocks are good and as long as you do it the same every time I dont think it would matter. Just find a setup that works and scale the car that way every time... either with or without shocks. Its kind of like scaling without or without the driver. Just pick one and do it the same every time so you dont introduce a variable.

[This message has been edited by dirtbuster (edited November 15, 2002).]

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted November 15, 2002 04:02 PM
sometimes when running coilovers or gas charged mono-tubes (like I do)... you don't really have a choice... you got to leave them on.

But in any case it is important to keep things the same one session to the next when scaling (otherwise you are comparing apples and oranges). And checking your shocks out on a regular basis is a great idea as well.

c21

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