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Author Topic:   need some Ford help
c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted September 30, 2002 10:21 AM
I friend of mine (who has more money than good sense and 6 or more 69 and 70 Mustang shells) asked me to help him make a sturdy and fast street stock for a high banked 1/4 mile clay oval. ALL of my experience is with stock front clip chevy stuff, but I love a challenge so ....

...some of the rules....
Up front it must use Ford (any model)
lower control arms,
spindles,rotors & calipers,
non-hiem tie rods

The rules allow:
connecting the subframes,
removing the rockers,
replacing the rear frame (keeping same susp type and pick-up locations),
replacing the hood and roof with alum,
replacing the all other sheet metal with aftermarket (or quality homemade) steel panels,
removal of cowl area (must retain stockish steel fire wall)....
..... anyway, you get the idea

I'm looking for lighter FORD spindle/rotor set-ups (will pinto spindles work, swapped, on a rear steer?),
Lighter calipers,
Tubular upper success stories,
optimized front susp. geometry (beyond moving the inner upper mounts down 1").....

Looking for suggestions (and/or links to sites or pictures) for converting the 70 Mustang into a strong (but still light) Stock front clip car......would really like to find pictures of well designed front hoop systems or links to Ford specific oval track sites.

Not necessarily looking for great ways to cheat in a Ford (although I do consider creative rule interpretation to be an artform), mainly looking for ways to stiffen it up and make it stronger up front.

I have some motor questions, but will post them in the appropriate forum.

Thanks in advance,

c21

outlawstock17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 620
posted September 30, 2002 12:01 PM
there is an aftermarket tubular upper/lower kit available that uses coil overs. a rear steer rack and pinion is available too. this stuff is very expensive.

pinto spindles are a little shorter and will bolt up, but they are front steer and that messes up the ackerman if you're thinking of flipping the spindles around and using a rear steer set-up. if you try to use the pinto spindles with a rear steer set-up, that first corner is going to be real ugly. every corner after that will be ugly too.

granada/monarch/maverick/comet disk brake spindles are the way to go if you're car isn't equipped with disk brakes. you're going to have to manually steer it unless you want to go with the factory power assist. the power assist is weak, in the way of headers and i wouldn't recommend it. the stud that connects the power assist to the center link is prone to coming out in a racing environment. if it comes out, about the only thing the steering wheel will be good for is to HANG ONTO!

read the street stock tech topic titled "1971 mustang". it may be of use to you. good luck, i'm always pullin' for the ford guy!

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted September 30, 2002 02:44 PM
Thanks outlawstock17,
car must use stock lower, stock steering box (this driver is happy with a manual box even with a 1.5:1 quickener) and springs must mount in stock (or close to) location. Shocks can be relocated, but I don't think there is a better than stock location up front (thought about a mount on the strut bar .... naa)

I was shown a disc brake set-up that I was led to believe was original 70 mustang stuff. they looked like heavy truck parts to me (although with a 5 on 4 1/2 pattern). Are the granada spindles,rotors and caliper lighter than the what came off of a 70 mustang? What is their bolt pattern?

has anybody that you are aware of tried mounting the stock spring saddle on an aftermarket tubular upper (with any measureable benifit) ?


thanx,
c21

outlawstock17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 620
posted September 30, 2002 04:07 PM
the granada spindle is a bolt on with the correct 5 on 4.5". it has a single piston floating caliper. a granada spindle/brakes are about the same weight as the stock mustang only it's easier and cheaper to find. the granada upper and lower control arms will work too. you can shim the LF upper control arm to get the camber where you want it if the lower control arm cam bolt won't give you enough. i've always lengthened the RF lower control arm to get the camber correct on that side.

i never used a tubular upper with this front suspension so i can't answer your 3rd question.

if you can handle manual steering with a v-8 on the nose and a quick steer, you're superman. i always had noodle arms by the end of the feature without a quickener especially on a heavy track. a dry slick was do-able, but it was hard to "hustle" the car on a heavy track.

ford5
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 298
posted September 30, 2002 05:05 PM
i would scrap the whole mustang under carriage and just use the sheet metal,build a good chassis out of a 80\up crown vic frame. you will have a better car in the long run and it will be easier and much more durable..............been there ,ford5

outlawstock17
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 620
posted September 30, 2002 05:35 PM
i agree with you ford5. the guy was asking about the shock towered fords though and i was giving him my experiences with them. i don't use them any more either.

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted October 01, 2002 08:53 AM
Ford 5, considered using a chassis from a full frame ford, but dismissed the idea (assumed the full frame chassis' were longer than 108"). Is there a Ford full frame that is close to 108?

c21

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted October 01, 2002 08:59 AM
anyone mess around with smaller (lighter) calipers off of a Ford import (capri, escort, etc)? our rules allow any brake components used on any of the manufacturer's (ford's) cars?

We can use aftermarket rotors and hats, so am considering fab'ing a mount on a 70 mustang (drum type) spindle to accept some dinky ford import caliper. ..... any thoughts on this?

c21

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