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Author Topic:   New set up
Whitelightning
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 102
posted September 21, 2002 06:16 AM
Well I ran my 84 Monte Carlo this Friday with the new afco springs and shocks 1300 rf 1100lf 250 lr 225 rr and It pushed kinda bad but after heat race it was determined that my stagger was way off according to a few people,the tires was all diferent sizes and was not on car properly(such has biggest tire was not on rf and so on, they were all out of place)but did not get to switch them before feature due to time. My question is there is a guy that said if I bring the car to his shop that he would set it up, Could the set-up(camber\caster, stagger,tow-out,wedge,etc.) Just not be exactly right being that I set it all up by eyeball cause I have no camber\caster gauge etc . Will this make a real big difference or is it minimal fine tuning. I just tought that after $550 worth of suspension it should of handled the best but finishing at the back was very disapointing. Thanks

DMA Racing
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 82
posted September 21, 2002 10:06 AM
hi, let them set it for you.it's all got to work together.you'll go faster

Dunbar
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 119
posted September 25, 2002 09:29 AM
No doubt let him set it up or let someone set it up that knows what there doing. Like myself on my tires I run 255.70.15 all the way around with a 2" offset wheel on the left rear. Notice no stagger. But if i needed to I can put a 225.75/15 on and it'll give me 3" stagger..... But having the tires all out of wack wont help the car handle either. if i was in your shoes I'd run biggest tires on the ride side and the smallest on the left.

Geffy95x
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted September 25, 2002 09:45 AM
Its the whole package that makes you go fast ,remember details details details.

ryan
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 430
posted September 25, 2002 03:00 PM
Have you scaled it. If you changed spring rates did you check you ride heights. Even if you did replace your springs with the same advertised rates it doesnt mean they are the same the old springs could have been sagging or lost some of their rate, but by all means if there is a experienced guy willing to set up your car DO IT. If it doenst work for you it can always be changed back. JMO

GnarlyCar
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 0
posted October 01, 2002 12:49 PM
Camber should be determined by tire wear..if it wears more on one side of the tread, lean it a little the other way..start with about 3 degrees of camber on the RF, and about 1.5 degrees on the LF. Your caster should be somewhere around 6 degrees on the RF and 3 on the LF. Total caster isn't as important as the caster split, or the difference between the two sides. Look for about 3 degrees of split, and the more total you've got, the more steering feel you'll get.
If all you did was put new springs and shocks under the car, it's entirely possible that your chassis is out in left field as far as set-up's concerned. A quarter inch spacer under a rear spring or even 2 pounds of air in one tire can amount to as much as a whole percent of crosswieght change, which is a LOT. If you've not yet established your baseline set-up on scales, you have absolutely no idea how far off you are right now or how much adjustment needs to be made to get you back near the ballpark. Get your tire pressures right and check them every time you run, then start with putting shims under your rear springs, as this is probably the easiest way to make wieght distribution changes at the track. Once you get the car close to handling decently, you can adjust your LF tire pressure to anywhere between 10 and 20 lbs to make fine adjustments to your corner wieghts without affecting the overall handling of the tire itself, once you consider how little the LF tire actually does in the middle of a corner.
As far as stagger's concerned, 2 1/2 to 3 inches should be adequate for any track you run. Smaller track = more stagger. If your car works better with no stagger, there's something else wrong and you're gonna get beat by the guy with the right stagger every time. If you run zero stagger one or the other tire will ALWAYS be slipping at any given time in the turn. You might get better forward bite with zero stagger, but if you're stagger's right you'll be WAY faster through the middle of the turn, you'll be faster getting off and you just plain won't need as much forward bite. There's no such thing as a circle track car that works better with no stagger, just drivers who haven't yet found how to make them work with the right stagger.
By the way.. $550 spent on springs and shocks is NEVER a bad investment, and here's something I heard about 10 years ago from a real old school racer:
"You'll never be sorry for buying a new tire."
Personally, I'd amend that by adding, "Unless you cut it the first time you race it.".. But you get the idea..

My $.02,
Good Luck,
Matt

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