Visit The Dirt Forum for More Information

Author Topic:   TORQUE CONVERTER
redneck racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 276
posted March 18, 2002 01:20 PM
Who makes a good torque converter for dirt oval application?

TCI
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 32
posted March 18, 2002 02:30 PM
What is the exact application? We offer a variety of converters for oval track applications that are lo stall and have the bearing setups inside to cut down on drag.


Scott

------------------
Scott Miller
TCI Automotive, LLC
662-224-8972 ext 332
scott@tciauto.com
www.tciauto.com

SLEEPY GOMEZ
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 199
posted March 18, 2002 09:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by redneck racing:
Who makes a good torque converter for dirt oval application?

I use an 8" converter from Mikes Transmissions in Calif. The 8" refers to the internal parts. It has stall speed characteristic close to stock. Mine weighs 22 pounds and works good in our I-Stock.
SLEEPY

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted March 18, 2002 10:26 PM
if you will put a 350 hardened shaft in the glide you will have some good options at a better price (lock ups)

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted March 20, 2002 06:45 AM
You just can't shove a turbo input shaft in a powerglide and slap a converter on. Most turbo 350 converters do not have any support bushing so the bushing has to be installed in the stator support on the glide. (machining required) Also the lockup type converter does not work on powerglides or non lockup 350's either it needs hydraulic pressure to work. Stick with a circle track powerglide converter from a reliable builder.

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted March 20, 2002 11:34 AM
you can buy the shaft to convert the powerglide with the 350 shaft I didn't say that you just slipped it in and I didnt say there wasn't changes to be made I said there were other options and the circlematic isn't legal in alot of places down here These were just suggestions if he wanted more info on how to I'm sure he would have asked

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited March 20, 2002).]

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted March 20, 2002 12:17 PM
I apologize Flatlander. I build racing powerglides and you would not believe what I see come through the door. I just do not want anyone to spend money without knowing all the facts. Don

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted March 20, 2002 12:28 PM
Not a prob Powerglide that's the reason we have this forum a little of this and a little of that and maybe we help or learn along the way

quick_camaro75
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 2
posted March 29, 2002 07:41 PM
In the JEGS or Summit Catalog i found a torque converter that is actually fake. It acts as a direct drive. This is for those classes that require a torque converter but lets some guys get "bend" the rules a little and get more power. Good luck. And i suggest taking a look

merlinmech
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted March 30, 2002 08:09 AM
be carefull with those fake converters, they can spot those easy with an infared temp gun.

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted March 30, 2002 06:25 PM
Not if you let it fill with hot tranny oil!

merlinmech
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted March 31, 2002 08:36 AM
they are empty and blocked off. fluid cant get in them. they stay cool.

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted March 31, 2002 10:26 AM
Drill it put a plug in it put abouta !/2cup of sand and 2 cups of fluid will behot everywhere but up on hub but there has to be a valve somewhere and you havt to be very creative to hide it and if they look hard enough they'll find it

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited March 31, 2002).]

merlinmech
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted April 02, 2002 08:10 AM
I like the sand idea. Makes enough friction to heat it up. Thanks. I have run those fake converters, but to easy to catch...til now. Do not have a valve thou, all done inside the tranny. Just put it in gear and go. I'm going to try that sand. Let you know if it works.

WesternAuto17
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 248
posted April 02, 2002 08:45 AM
So if you fill a fake converter full of sand and fluid, won't that add a friggin' buttload of rotating weight thereby eleiminating most of the reason for not having the torque converter? Also, how do you hide the clutch for the pump valve? Let alone, with a car that must have a converter, the stall of a real converter might help you get your rpm's up. Which would be good for an underpowered, overweight racecar (i.e. a street stock).

I'm just curious, I don't have rules against a coupler, so I got no converter at all. Its not a problem for me.

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted April 02, 2002 11:45 AM
You drill a hole into the converter then using a long bit another hole thru the drive hub and TA DA it fills with hot tranny oil. but the converter is gutted so it just spins around the oil!

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted April 02, 2002 12:50 PM
Idon't think that less than a Qt. of material will weigh the same as a full convertor of fluid western17 ya think? merlin mech how do like that internal valve system I've always used a manual valve does it feel good and smooth on takeoff I've seen them advertised but really don"t know anyone thats used one a lot

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited April 02, 2002).]

go4win
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 61
posted April 02, 2002 11:34 PM
the "valveless" or internal powerglides work
quite well. I have used the valve type and
the "kickdown" lever type and like the
internal best. you literally put it in gear
and take off just like your daily driver.
this setup works best if you race in high gear. they tell me low gear racers should use
a valve on the pump or a TCI type valve body.
I use one built by Brad's Trans.
Hope this helps .
ps I ve seen them in everything from 2000# mods to 3600 stockers.

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted April 03, 2002 10:22 AM
sounds like a good option I may give that a try I'm building a new glide now for my brothers pure street

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted April 03, 2002 10:49 AM
Flatlander how do you get through tech with the lever or wire to actuate the tranny. My powerglides have no external anything its all inside and I can build either high or low gear tranny's. Direct tranny's are not legal in streets-pures anywhere around here.

[This message has been edited by powerglides (edited April 03, 2002).]

Flatlander
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 310
posted April 03, 2002 12:41 PM
We don't run that car every week we run it out of town only at high car count tracks most of the time where the locals really don't like losing but are too gutsy to say anything they'd rather wait till you come back If they looked they could find it I came back over the trannie and the valve is down low on the right side of the seat I have a tubbed inteiror so you would have to get in or under to see it I leave my gloves on top of it and never put them on until we're in line we use it at shall we say special places we run a triple disc in our regular car Like I said I run the rules where everyone runs them but there are places where you run what you brung I'll tell you how some of these tracks are teched one has a two barrel rule so they have cars come in with 4 barrels and all they have to do is unhook them well thats fine but the problem somehow they forget and some how they don't check that again go figure like I said this is not the case at most tracks but don't think it doesn"t happen a lot

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited April 03, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited April 03, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited April 03, 2002).]

DirtDobber
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted April 03, 2002 07:10 PM
'k What about using the lockup trannies with kevlar clutch in the converter? Flip the switch and your locked, flip it again and you pass tech. I have not tried this but have wondered if it would work say for 400hp and lower.

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted April 04, 2002 07:47 AM
You would have to use a turbo 350 or 700 tranny for this as the powerglide never came with a lockup. and the added drag and weight of the tranny and converter would not be worth the lockup option. A good 9 or 10 inch converter with a glide is the best bet.

hesseracing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted April 05, 2002 12:38 AM
ok, i have a street stock 3600 lbs 400+ horse motor. i run a glide in first gear. 182 ratio 342rear gears. 5200 rpm. will up the rears this year to 373 to get rpm up. got tci coupler and tranny set for the rod to throw it out to engage gears. plan on sticking same motor and tranny into my open wheel i just bought later this year. this set up will work but would the valve body that lets you just shift into gear and go be better? would like to go to that if possible. didnt want to try on a heavy car.

hesseracing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted April 05, 2002 12:43 AM
also when i put the coupler in it was to tight to move to check for play so we measured the play and went from there. the directions showed second to last grove for my application but we had to stick the ring in the last which says for ford only. could that be due to having a scat aftermarket crank? thanks for any answers

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted April 05, 2002 06:24 AM
I you can't move your coupler in and out after you bolt the tranny up you probably have an alignment problem. I would check that first. Are you running a rear engine plate, or rear mounts, extended line up pins? What brand coupler do you have? Is the crank flange running true on the crank?

hesseracing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted April 05, 2002 09:06 AM
powerglide its a tci coupler two piece. everything else is stock except the crank its a scat crank. 400 crank to make a 383. the tranny lined up great. stock guide pins and it went right in and its bolted up flat no motor plate. it went in very easy that might be the problem. nothing ever goes easy! we tried to lube the splines also and still couldnt move it back and forth. thanks for the help scott

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted April 06, 2002 12:10 AM
I don't like TCI stuff but thats just my preference. If you do not get the problem figured out you will probably ruin your pump. You should always put neversieze on the splines. Just because the tranny went on fine it does not mean that the pump is lined up with the crankshaft. Was the motor line bored?

hesseracing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted April 07, 2002 12:02 PM
powerglide yes it was line bored. i talked with a guy at the track sat nite and he said that there souldnt be a problem as long as i have the proper spacing which i do. he said that the shaft being tight would be ok. as long as it didnt get pushed into the pump. it wont travel that far back so i should be good. thx scott

merlinmech
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted April 07, 2002 07:06 PM
Flatlander: Just drill a 7/32 hole in the reverse piston and one in the low gear pressure line. Works just like you have a converter in it after a couple of runs.

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted April 08, 2002 06:29 AM
Flatlander. If you Just do that your car may, just not move.

merlinmech
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 51
posted April 08, 2002 10:03 AM
I've been running them that way for 5 years.

WesternAuto17
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 248
posted April 11, 2002 08:44 AM
hesser - how can you have the right amount of play (3/16 to 1/8) if the coupler won't move? I'm having the exact same problem with the exact same parts.

hesseracing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 55
posted April 12, 2002 12:55 PM
western, we put the tranny in and out at least 30 times. the shaft wont move to check the clearance. what i did was measured the coupler from the back to the lip inside it. it was 5/16". if i put the ring on the chevy grove (the second from the tranny) i was not going to have at least 1/8" clearance. i put it on the ford slot and with the shaft all the way into the tranny the ring is right at the edge of the coupler which means that i have approx 5/16" clearance. my view is a little more is better than less. i wont ram it into the pump but it doesnt have enough clearance to come to forward and shear the teeth of of the tranny. my only fear is the tightness of the shaft in the coupler. some have told me that the tranny is not squared with the motor. its bolted tight and ive never had a problem with this motor/tranny combo before. i expect it to loosen after the first time i drive the car around the yard. my buddy doesnt even have a ring in the shaft to make his work. i guess ill find out if im right. hope this helps you scott

Back to the Archives