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Author Topic:   Engine pulling
blanep
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 66
posted February 20, 2002 09:30 PM
Ok, on the late model I hang around when they pull the motor they usually pull the engine and tranny together from a plate on the intake. I was intending to use the same method on my street stock since it is so much easier to seperate the two once there out, but got to thinking about how much more my engine and trans weighed as compared to that aluminum lightweight critter in the late model. I am afraid the extra weight might be too much stess on the intake, but thought I'd ask if any of you guys do this or if you seperate the two first or opt for the chain on the front and back of the block method.

te33
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 46
posted February 20, 2002 10:02 PM
i pull mine together,355,turbo 350.it's got a cast iron intake,i'm not to sure if i'd do it with an aluminum intake tho.i leave every thing on ,starter,pipes,fan,so its heavy,hope this helps.

blanep
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 66
posted February 20, 2002 11:17 PM
I am glad to see your post. My intake is cast-iron but got a powerglide for transmission which I think is a wee bit lighter if anything so it oughta work then. Thanks

o5racer
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 115
posted February 21, 2002 12:09 AM
im not saying i reccomend trying it but i put an engine in a 89 chevy pu a while back. fully dressed 350, aluminum 5 spd, nv241 transfercase, manifolds and all. with 3, 5/16 bolts in the aluminum intake. mabe not a good idea but it worked.

ryan
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 430
posted February 21, 2002 12:17 AM
We always pull our motors with chains hooked to the front and the back. I figure i would rather be safe than sorry. Think about if your motor fell what could go wrong. Think of all the damage if it fell from five foot up!

Machinah
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 79
posted February 21, 2002 04:40 AM
Check out your local auto salvage yard. You will find that there are usually factory mounted pulling tabs under the intake bolts and/or exhast bolts. Get some of them, it makes the job easier and cleaner. Mount them where the factory mounts them.

The way I've always understood it is that you don't pull a motor from a long bolt sticking out of the motor. The bolts should always be torqued to the proper specs. If they are loose then distortion of the threads in your block will occur. Distortion of the threads means that the next time that you torque the bolt, the torque reading will not be accurate.

I've pulled a block and tranny with a factory aluminum intake and tabs mounted from the factory several times now and have yet to see the intake having the slightest damage.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted February 21, 2002 11:29 AM UIN: 54865418
i agree with mach i have the loops mounted to my intake and use a chain i do most of my work by myself so it comes in handy sometimes to be able to move the hook on the chain to change the angle of the motor i put a motor in my pick up a few years back and left the tranny in and ended up bending the flywheel going in so i'll never do it that way again

snowman
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 140
posted February 21, 2002 02:02 PM
I seem to find myself pulling a lot of stock engines,(at least it seems like a lot for a guy not in the engine buisness). I use the stock brackets like the guys have mentioned,and have never had a problem.

From a strength perspective,the plate bolted to the intake is stronger.

Provided that the plate assembly is properly welded,and the intake threads are good,and you use new bolts(at least grade 5) properly torqued, Then you may use this method with confidence,as you will have very large margin of saftey.

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