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Author Topic:   69 chevelle rear control arm help?
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 10
posted January 09, 2002 05:46 AM
What angles on the rear control arms should I run? I've heard so many different things on this,about angles,degrees,move the uppers the lowers etc.... any help would be great thanks.My 69 chevelle is all stock except 950 rf and 850lf which works great but needs more bite coming off the corner thanks.

Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted January 10, 2002 12:38 AM UIN: 54865418
you might want to start by putting some heavier springs up front like a 1100-1200onnthe right and a 900-1000 on the leftwe set our pinion angle at 6 degrees the way we do it is piut an angle finder on your yoke set it to 6 and then drill the hole where the bushings now set then you will have to cut off some of the extra arm if i rember right if you drill the holes 7/8 forward of the center of the origanl holes you should be alright

[This message has been edited by racer17j (edited January 10, 2002).]

Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 140
posted January 17, 2002 11:35 AM
I'm not familar with a 69 chevell rear suspension,it sounds like the 4 link type on a metric,is this correct? ..So,I can't really say what the angles should be,but maybe this will help. First thing,when you change from stock springs to racing springs,(you need to do this,call the spring manufacturer for recomendation) all the angles will change,trailing arm angles and pinion angle.This assumes that you will not be using stock height springs. OK,with your new racing springs installed and your car at ride height,you need to set your pinion angle.As you have already been advised by racer 17j,the easiest way to do this is to redrill the upper trailing arms.(at the rear end housing end) Next,you may want to lower the lower trailing arms at the rear end housing,just drop them whatever you can get while staying inside your mounting brackets.(again,I haven't worked on a 69 chevell) so i don't know how far they can be droped before you run out of bracket.In general,you want the lower mounting point to be no more than seven inches below the center of your axle.5 to 7 would be considered in the "good" range. Lowering these arms will provide more anti-squat which will help with foward bite. These are some simple things you can do to help,and usually pass stock location rules,if you weld up the old holes. If you can use a 9 inch and make your own brackets you can do a lot more,but you need a jig to do it properly. One more thing,as you make changes,make sure that you keep the rear end square.Don't assume that it is square right now in stock form,it may very easily not be.Now,you may be advised by some that leeding the rearend is the way to go,and in fact,it may well improve your car.But,I would start with it square to get a good baseline set-up and then tune from there

Dirt Roller

Total posts: 10
posted January 23, 2002 03:53 AM
Thanks alot racer17j and snowman,I will use this info

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