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Author Topic:   afco ball joints
hrspwr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted November 10, 2001 05:10 PM
I am getting ready to re-build the front end in my 77 cougar. What I want to know is are the afco ball joints that much better. I will need to use a weld-in collar with the ***** in ball joints. Anybody have success with these. Do the ball joints sieze in the collar after a couple races? Any body got any tips for this project? Thanks.

phelps
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 58
posted November 10, 2001 11:07 PM
That was not very nice.

Sorry...taken care of.
jammin

[This message has been edited by jammin (edited November 10, 2001).]

PEDDLER
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 298
posted November 11, 2001 09:11 AM
I have been in the parts business for some 35 to 40 years (thus the handle PEDDLER). As long as you use a good brand such as Moog, TRW, Spicer and not a product that is tounted as "MADE BY", you will be allright.

There are many "second line parts" that are price line (cheaper)that are not quite as good but will pass mfg. specs. The finish,quality control, and marketing is not there. These parts are a good "have to have one right now" replacement but if you are doing a winter rebuild, stick to name brands.

The Peddler

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted November 12, 2001 10:48 AM
Seems like most (all?) of the ball joints I have gotten from Afco have been Moog parts. The ***** in (Chrysler) ball joints are a little more expencive, but you can't beat the convienence. Put some anti-seize on the threads and you should be fine.

PEDDLER
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 298
posted November 12, 2001 07:59 PM
MOOG and TRW are both owned by Federal Mogul Corp. and are basic OEM manufactures. Spicer also builds a lot of their own parts.

When you by AFCO your buying a reboxed MOOG part with the knowledge and expertise that AFCO has spent in research and fitability to your particular application.

Same part different box.

Get a local parts person to do the research and save some money.

The Peddler

hrspwr
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 35
posted November 12, 2001 08:54 PM
thanks peddler. I guess I`ll just buy them through summit and be done with it as they carry moog chassis parts.

hobby12
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 20
posted November 12, 2001 08:57 PM
are the moog balljoints typically cheaper than the afco? thanks

c21
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 346
posted November 13, 2001 11:19 AM
I think you will find that Afco's pricing on Moog parts (including tie-rods) is VERY competitive. For example their tall lower press-in (#20038-1) is about $13, try to find it under the Moog # (K6117) and you will pay $17 to $30 each.
If you want to do the comparisons yourself grab a "Lefthander Chassis" catalog which I believe crosses the Afco skroo-in ball joints to Moog #'s and go to your favorite parts store.
Good Luck

No Shame
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 4
posted December 10, 2001 12:23 AM
If you run the tall Moog ball joint, does it still require you ream the spindle??
And is the bolt pattern different for bolting it in the metric a-arm?
I run the Afco tall joints, and granted they help but what a a pain in the *** , you have to ream out the spindle and change the bolt holes in the a arm then god for bid if you would bend one at the track and have to have that ready in spares. Anyone have any info?

PEDDLER
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 298
posted December 10, 2001 06:55 PM
Most of the chassis builders use the tall or truck ball joints and yes the spindle has to be reamed.

[This message has been edited by PEDDLER (edited December 10, 2001).]

bbracer17
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 256
posted December 10, 2001 06:57 PM
I started buying my ball joints from afco because the tall uppers were about 4 dollas cheaper than from any parts house in town.

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