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Author Topic:   installing ***** in studs in place of press in
dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted March 26, 2003 02:01 PM UIN: 13209501
How hard is it to do? The local shop has a tool for $20. My question is do you have to drill the head at all, or is it the right size? Anyone done this before? I am sure some of you have. I always get help before. Any pointers would be great. I haven't been able to find any directions for doing it online. Thanks.

John

rico 08
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted March 26, 2003 07:17 PM
I'm not sure it's worth saving the money to DIY i would definitely pay them to do it.

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted March 27, 2003 08:57 AM UIN: 13209501
Well at $130 bucks parts and labor I am looking for other options. I picked up the studs for $12 and the tool for $20, so we will see how it goes. So far so good though as I got all of the old studs out. Now its time to break out the cutting fluid and start tapping. The tool is setup to make sure you get the tap started straight, so I think it will work well. If I have any problems, I will stop and take it to the shop. Maybe they will give me a price break if they don't have to remove the old studs.

John

dirtbuster
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 353
posted March 27, 2003 09:59 AM
make sure you use a flat bottom tap instead of the common tapered one. that way you can get good threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.

UFnARacing
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 68
posted March 27, 2003 10:11 AM
Dode, I do a lot of this type of stuff myself also. Call me cheap, but that way I can't blame anybody but myself if it's done wrong. It also gives me the incentive to do it right! Anyway, I was going to buy the tools and do it myself, but where I bought the heads, they said they'd do it for $40!! That's with the price of the ARP studs! Couldn't pass that up.

To my point. My plan was to pull one stud and replace it, one at a time. I was going to make a "jig" that would use the closest stud to ensure the new ***** in was straight and in the right place. Just a thought.

Randy

autoshop
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 102
posted March 27, 2003 10:37 AM
Just mill off the stud boss 1/4" that will put you back at the correct height for the stud then mill for the guide plate if you using one. It takes more time to setup the head at the correct angle to mill the stud boss than milling them . Mill one and tap one. Remember to seal the exhaust s****-in studs so they don't leak water..

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted March 27, 2003 11:42 AM UIN: 13209501
They don't require any milling, so there are no concerns there. I am using the type of studs that do not require the boss be milled. Yes, sealant I have, as well as the bottoming tap. I think I am set to give it a try.

John

66jj
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 352
posted March 27, 2003 04:30 PM
i have a tool that you use the adjoining stud to bolt down, it works fine, and easy..

you dont need to drill the hole after pulling out the old stud.

i dont know where i got the tool, i think its a lisle??

jj

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted March 27, 2003 04:34 PM UIN: 13209501
sounds like the tool that I got. I picked it up for $20 at the local speed shop. It works great so far.

John

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