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Author Topic:   HEI question
Eljojo
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 273
posted November 28, 2002 05:26 PM
Are all Chevy HEI distributers about the same? I see them advertized from around a hundred bucks to the pricey DUI units. Would a stock piece with an aftermarket module and a good coil be noticeably out performed by one built strictly for racing? Or, would I be wise to bite the bullet and spend the big bucks on a unit already set up?

DMA Racing
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 82
posted November 28, 2002 05:41 PM
i got one 2 years ago for $159.00 with a 50,0000 coil. have not had any trouble out of it.changed the rotor button once.by time you buy the coil and all the other parts i think you will come out cheaper just to buy one

oh ,yeah sleepy did a article on a 18 volt system check that out to, it works

[This message has been edited by DMA Racing (edited November 28, 2002).]

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted November 28, 2002 10:40 PM UIN: 54865418
i know alot of guys that just run stock with the vac advanced blocked and either weld the advance in or get a advance weight kit for it. if you already have a hei then i'd do just like you said a good mod and coil cost you under 100 for a stock appearing msd coil and accell modual

2nd2none
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 368
posted November 29, 2002 01:54 AM
an advantage between a stock HEI and say a MSD billet HEI, there is less flex between the cam and intake clamp on the billet, another strong hold is the amount of oil flow that gets around the stock cast HEI and the billet........

Racer X
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 63
posted November 29, 2002 12:04 PM
I bought a DUI a few years ago and it went out before the season was over.Sent it back they fixed it, went out again.Took a stock hei bought a msd mod, good cap and rotor and have ran it two straight years with no problems.We are going to a msd box for this season always had good luck with it.

66jj
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 352
posted November 29, 2002 01:20 PM
I RUN STOCK HEI WITH A MSD MODULE, WITH A STOCK COIL. I WORKED AT SUPER SHOPS AND WE HAD A IGNITION TEST MACHINE AND ILL SAY THIS COILS ARE SERIOUSLY DECIEVING..
I TESTED A HEI WITH A SUPER COIL, A REMOTE SUPER COIL,A REMOTE MALLORY NOT FOR STREET USE COIL, AND A REMOTE STOCK ONE FOR PTS, THAT WAS IN A CAR IN MY YARD, WHICH WAS BEST THE ONE FROM THE BACK YARD, IT WAS A BLUE STREAK, AND PACKED SOME WALLUP.

I THINK A REMOTE COIL HAS TO BE BETTER DUE TO THE FLUID AROUND IT, HELPING TO KEEP IT COOL, BUT MINE BURNT UP IN A CAR FIRE AND I NEVER BOTHERED TO PUT IT BACK. I JUST RUN A STOCK CAP MOUNT.... AND GOOD WIRES.

tilley88
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 353
posted November 29, 2002 02:02 PM
I've run a DUI and a home-built fully advanced and welded HEI, and like 'em both. The DUI is pricey($350), but works flawlessly. The welded-up unit was cheaper(Accel mod and coil) but had issues with starting. Better have a strong starter and battery with the welded HEI.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted November 29, 2002 07:03 PM UIN: 54865418
tilley did you turn the motor over before you hit the power to the hei no problems starting if you do it that way

tilley88
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 353
posted November 30, 2002 01:19 AM
Yeah, that does help with a weak starter and/or battery! I don't have those issues now, I run a stout Napa battery with a MSD ignition!

tyler weiss
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 13
posted November 30, 2002 08:54 AM
We bought the speedway ing. kit 400 dollars comes with everything no problems also locked dist. and can adjust rev limiter with screwdriver

rico 08
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 372
posted December 02, 2002 01:31 PM
wow did you mean a welded centrifugal advance?if you did how did you ever get it started?

dgb
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 7
posted December 02, 2002 02:02 PM
Since you're on the topic of HEI's, Ive always run stock Hei's with welded centrifugal and have experienced some problems with timing that varies with rpm. I have added shims to keep the dist. shaft from moving up and down in the dist. housing and I use a cam buttom with almost no lash, also my timing chain is in very good condition. Still the timing would go from 38 at idle back down to 33-34 at 5000+ It is very steady, it just backs off as the rpm climbs. I thought it might be in the distributer so I tried a Accel module and coil, but the problem continued. I tried swapping in other distributers with no centrifugal and it seems to vary a little less. Is this a problem with HEI's in general, or can my problem be hiding elsewhere? How much bashlash is allowable in the distributer gear? I've put new distributer gears on several times but it doesn't seem to matter. The gear on the camshaft is in good condition also.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted December 02, 2002 09:13 PM UIN: 54865418
rico this goes along with what i posted there for tilley if you push the start button and have the motor turning over when you hit the power to the ignition it works just fine every once and a while when it's hot it will pull on ther starter pretty hard but the ez to fix that is not to let it die lol

66jj
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 352
posted December 02, 2002 11:17 PM
dgb, thats what they say is the problem with a hei, but its usually above 6500 from what i have heard, i use a msd module and dont have that happening, but it does bounce some with a stock one...

i think accel electronics are stock cheap stuff with a yellow sticker and a lot of advertising..

i would say if your welded ,do you have full voltage at that rpm, it could be running out of juice, you need a 10 gauge wire min. i run a alt and have allways heard you needed 14 volts for a hei to work to its potential, i know everyone will stomp me and say they run without alternator.

jeff

dgb
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 7
posted December 03, 2002 08:02 AM
thanks 66jj, I thought of that too and started using an alternator last season. The voltmeter says it's operating at a little over 13 volts. Seems all hei's do it to some extent, some are worse than others I guess. I'll try the heavier wire.

Geffy95x
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 122
posted December 03, 2002 09:49 AM
I built a bracket for my mini 1 wire alternator off of the rear end,never have to worry about it ,it's worked flawlessly over the past two seasons,
14 volts always when you need it .

66jj
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 352
posted December 03, 2002 10:47 AM
dgb, are you running staight from the battery to one toggle then the hei power wire though, you dont want anything at all else coming of that power wire.

next time you have running check the voltage going in at idle then at the rpm your having the fluctuation at.

glad guys are getting into running alternators, i hate listening to those generators in the pits to charge a battery!!!

jj

dgb
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 7
posted December 03, 2002 05:43 PM
I run a pretty heavy wire from the battery cable to power my entire switchpanel, but my ignition has it's own toggle and wire lead to the dist from there. It doesn't matter though if anything else is turned on or not, it acts the same either way. I really doubt it is an electrical supply problem unless I have a lousy splice somewhere or ran across a lousy switch; I use pretty heavy wires whenever possible. Certainly would be a cheap test though to just run a jumper from the battery to the dist after the car is running to bypass all the existing wiring. Unfortunately, the car has already been taken apart for winter. I'm sure I'll run across the same deal next spring though. Thanks

widebody
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 197
posted December 05, 2002 05:07 PM
The GM module is not that bad, Good advertisment has made them bad. They are good until 6500-7000, with no timing bounce.

Advice from an old drag racer:
Use plastic screws to fasten the rotor.
Buy a good cap, not just the ones with brass terminals on it(another consumer selling ploy brass=better), but the cap itself is a higher qality of material(Standard blue streak) or MSD-8411 from summit $17,

The better GM modules have a 990 (I think thats the number). Make sure you use heat sink compound (Radio Shack) on the module, It is not the same as Dielectric grease for your wires. Modules getting hot cause failures..

This was found on the net"
Stock modules incorporate what they call a "variable dwell" circuit that reduces dwell at lower RPM to keep the coil from over saturating. This is good for sharp performance and long coil life. Some parts store modules don't have this circuitry in them. "

This has sparked my interest, hahaha I kill me. Ill post back with more info later..
Good Luck. wide

fastrack1
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 73
posted December 05, 2002 06:36 PM
HEY GIVE A GENTLEMEN NAME MEL A CALL OR EMAIL HIM HE HAS A WEBSITE LISTED AS MELS IGNITION.COM HE WAS VERY HELPFUL IN RE WORKING AND JUICEING UP MY OLD DISTRIBTOUR IT WORKED GREAT

krace72
Dirt Newbie

Total posts: 3
posted December 24, 2002 09:54 PM
I just did exactly what you are all talking about. I did an experiment with a stock distibutor and found that there is not much difference between the stock modules over the high dollar ones until you get past 7500rpms.luckily i have access to a old sun distributor machine. I found the best success is to buy a recurve kit with springs and weights.i set it up to start to advance at about 1350 rpms and about 2700rpms for full advance.cut the vacuum advance canister off and making sure you put the distributor in a vice and hold the housing and the gear together with the rotor pointed at a line that you have scribed on the housing marking number one cylinder,weld rod left from vacuum advance to where you cut off the vacuum canister flush at edge of housing Shim the gear at .004or.005 but no more than.007 that will cure timing problems as the rpm goes up.have not had any problems starting(stock starter,good battery)

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