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Author Topic:   wiring alternator
dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted July 02, 2002 12:13 AM UIN: 13209501
How would I go about wiring up a Delco alternator on the race car? Are they internally regulated, or do I need a radiator? I see a battery and ground cable connect post, but what is the two-prong clip for? One is labeled like F and the other is like R. Does F stand for Field? I have heard about putting a switch in the field before to turn it off while racing. Do I put a switch between these two prongs? Thanks.

John

BayouGent
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 87
posted July 02, 2002 02:21 AM
Get a Delco alternator with an internal voltage regular built in. You can use a car such as an '79 Chevy caprice as an example at your local auto parts store. There is a post on the back of the alternator that has a nut on it. Run a wire (go heavy, at least 16 gauge, I like to use 12 gauge) from that post on the back of the alternator down to the main (large) post on your starter where the positive battery cable connects to it. Make sure that your alternator is aligned VERY well with the pulleys you are going to drive it off of, install a belt and you are done. It sounds like you have the right alternator, but here is a tip. The alternators with the internal regulators usually have some slotted intented markings on the rear of the alternator housing. That's the best way I can think of to describe them. In regards to putting a switch on the field to stop the alternator from charging during a race I don't recommend it because if you do that then you've basically defeated the purpose of having it while you are racing. You don't have to have anything connected to that 2 prong clip for the alternator to work. It will charge the battery just fine and regulate itself as necessary.

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted July 02, 2002 10:32 AM UIN: 13209501
Ok...from what I was reading, you have to connect the field to the positive post on the alt to get it to charge all the time. Is this correct? Also, it is ok to run from the alt straight to the starter? That would be much better than running all the way to the battery. Thanks.

John

monteregal7
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 45
posted July 02, 2002 10:13 PM
OK WE DO THIS.
THE PLUG ON THE ALT . USE THE RED WIRE OUT OF THAT TO THE POST. THEN ALL YA HAVE TO DO IS RUN A HOT WIRE FROM THE BATTERY TO THE POST. ALL GM ALT ARE HOT ALL THE TIME. I'M A GM CERTIFIED MECHANIC.

BayouGent
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 87
posted July 04, 2002 01:13 AM
Yes Dode you can go to the large post on the starter solenoid where your main positive battery cable connects to it. Just use a good eye connector on the wire where it connects to the starter, that way you don't have to worry if it's making good contact or not. If the wire that gives you power to your ignition panel, such as the switch, gauge lights, and ESPECIALLY the power to your ignition system (your distributor) also connects to the large starter solenoid post as well your car will keep running even if the battery connections inside your car fail during the race. If you have your ignition hooked to the battery itself and not the starter after you install the alternator I suggest you make a change and get the power from the same post on the starter that your alternator connects to. That way all your battery needs to do is START YOUR ENGINE. Oh, and if you decide to not run an alternator you need to get a marine "deep cycle" battery. These are designed to operate without being constantly charged and also be able to be fully recharged after going completely dead. They usually cost a few bucks extra but they last much longer given the way they are used.

Pickel
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 564
posted July 04, 2002 09:53 AM UIN: 25419780
I run a alt. on my car and its wired up the same way bayouGent seid.. I have been running on for years ( only cause I run electric fans).. also my alt. is ran off the rear end..

dirtracer14
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 499
posted July 04, 2002 11:48 AM UIN: 23443678
Make sure if you goto the starter that you dont have a silonoid (sp) that only gets power when you hit the button or the starter will be the only thing getting charged.

WesternAuto17
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 248
posted July 05, 2002 09:18 AM
I agree with dirtracer14, in a perfect world, running the alternator output to the starter would be great, but that creates a lot of hot wires under the hood. I run a ford solenoid in the car so the starter cable is only hot while the motors crankin. That way, in the event of a big wreck, you won't arc the positive cable on the header. So, obviuosly, I run the alternator wire back to the soleniod in the interior.

If you don't have an internally regulated alternator, an auto electric shop can put one on for you. The switch is pretty much a waste of time. The drag from the alternator isn't enough to make a diiference or throw the belt.

BayouGent
Dirt Forum Racer

Total posts: 87
posted July 05, 2002 11:15 PM
We run a Ford solenoid on one of the cars I wrench on. I prefer it over having the solenoid down by the header tube, especially since the larger tube headers for the metrics bring one of them right by the starter. We had run a heat shield prior to that but I do like the idea of eliminating as many hot wires from under the hood as well. Great point Western...definitely a safer way to go and get the job done at the same time.

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