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Author Topic:   Shrouds, Mounts, Etc.
Deak-Jr
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted June 17, 2002 01:06 PM
We have an '84 MC not far off from being ready to run -- we're dropping a 355 in with replacement stock motor mounts. Anyone have hood clearance problems w/bigger motor & stock mounts? We also want to add a 1" spacer but want to avoid paying for one of those low profile air cleaners.

ALSO -- putting M-20 4-spd behind it -- has anyone done this and what made the best tranny mount? Something homemade or from the boneyard ....

ALSO ALSO -- radiator shroud? I imagine most folks get out the tin and homemake these as well? That's where we are leaning -- any thoughts?

ALSO ALSO ALSO (lot of alsos, I've got more ?s than answers, for sure) -- since we're running 4-spd in a car that was automatic in its first life ... we're using a stock clutch and an aftermarket master/slave cylinder (like the LMs use) w/a used clutch pedal from a local LM driver. That'll be strong enough to pull the stock clutch, won't it? We're not sure.

This hapless rookie welcomes all ideas & suggestions, and thanks much. This is the best pure-stocker tech board I've seen ....

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted June 17, 2002 02:13 PM UIN: 54865418
your clutch st up will work fine just make sure you have the right thro out bearing as for the shroud i use a stock one and then made a tin plate to mount it to the front hoop bars

rusty9cab
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 18
posted June 17, 2002 07:20 PM
As far as hood clearence is concerned, look for a small hood scoop, either used or new. You can buy a new fiberglass scoop for 30 or 40 bucks, cut a hole in your hood and rivet the scoop on.

redneck racing
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 276
posted June 17, 2002 08:37 PM
As for hood clearence i use a shorter air cleaner, it still buckels the hood a bit in the back for air. Eddie

Deak-Jr
Dirt Roller

Total posts: 15
posted June 19, 2002 01:40 PM
Thank you for the replies. I took a mounting plate out of an old GM gunboat and cut it down so that the rubber mounts fit the radiator fine. Also got a plastic shroud, should be OK with some hacksawing and duct-tape.

I have a spring question -- the rear springs we're using are a decent bit shorter than stock unsprung height. If on the wrecker they'd pop out. Do you have any ideas that have worked (other than avoiding the wrecker) that will keep them in? I heard to cable tie the pigtails to the axle housing, that sounds like the best one so far.

Thanks again for answering my questions, it's much appreciated.

6pack
Dirt Maniac

Total posts: 128
posted June 19, 2002 09:16 PM
Weld a bolt to your rear end housing on each side, above this weld a bolt to your chassis. Connect a chain to the pair of bolts on each side that will stop travel when springs are at max travel. Wrap the chains with electrical tape to keep them from "kinking".

Pickel
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 564
posted June 19, 2002 09:38 PM UIN: 25419780
hey deak
on you motor get you a set of lower frame mounts off a buick v6 and then cut you chevy upper mounts in have a re-drill the for the bolts.. my motor sits about 1/4 inch off the frame and I have plenty of hood clearence for a 4" breather..

malibuchevy2
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 43
posted June 19, 2002 10:49 PM
irun 10 in spring on the rear i took a piece of pipe the size of the pig tail welded the pipe to my spring mount on the rear end then slide the spring over the pipe the pipe is 3inches long i think have not had any trouble with it yet

ryan
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 430
posted June 20, 2002 12:45 AM
I have used cables with cable clamps before and it has worked well.

RaceDoctor
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 44
posted June 20, 2002 10:33 PM
We use something called "mule-tape" that electricians use to pull wires through conduit. It is strap about 3/4 inch wide, this stuff is strong enough to tow a tank....
We tie it around the upper and lower shock mounts to hold up the housing to keep the springs from falling out...

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