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Author Topic:   72 Chevelle...good car or not?
dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted June 12, 2002 08:44 AM UIN: 13209501
Would a 72 Chevelle be a good car to use for a street stock? I found one that is a little rusty, and probably not a good restoration candidate, but I can get it cheap. Our track is 1/2 mile banked and is a pretty fast track. Most everyone runs Metrics at our track (including our current car), but I like to be different. Heck, I have an 89 Ford Thunderbird I could use too if I wanted...I think that would be cool too, but that is a different post.

John

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted June 12, 2002 11:45 AM UIN: 54865418
if you have a weight rule thats pretty heavy like 3400 then i would use one they have a good front end set up but the weight and the lack of junk yard parts no a days are a couple of the set backs

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted June 12, 2002 11:52 AM UIN: 13209501
Yeah, we have a 3400 lb rule...

I thought about the junk yard thing...that kinda ***** , but I really can't think of a whole lot of parts that I might need from a junk yard for it other than possibly sheet metal at some point (well, unless I wreck it bad). It is a complete roller that I can get for like $50. I almost can't let it go for that price, but I wasn't sure whether it would be good or not. I have read somewhere that a lot of modifieds are built on those frames...is that true?

John

wam24u
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 66
posted June 12, 2002 09:42 PM
In the late 80's early 90's even,The 68-72 Chevelle was the car of choice.But as mentioned above, spare parts are a rare find.
I say if you got enuff extra stuff, build it.They make a fine looking and well handling Racecar.(Would like to have one myself)

techmaster35
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 259
posted June 12, 2002 09:43 PM
go with the thunderbird and blow those street stock boys minds when your crankin lap time 2 or 3 seconds faster than them in their worn out metrics and watch the b*tchin start to cause everyone of them are gonna complain because your out runnin them.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted June 13, 2002 02:20 AM UIN: 54865418
our shaw mod is on that stub there are alot of others that still use them also thats kinda the reason why the parts are so hard to find i knpw because the guy that builds my cars scraps for a living and he is going everywhere finding all the front end parts he can find for those and not having to much luck

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted June 13, 2002 07:04 AM
Dode, All you have to do is bend one a-arm and you are watching the feature from the stands. I would not recomend it.

Brad haddix
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 56
posted June 13, 2002 02:52 PM
I'm pretty sure 72's were full frame cars. My son's 69 is. They make good racecars and buick, pontiac, and olds versions are good doners, skylarks are everywhere. Nothing against fords, but cubic dollar wise the chevelle will be cheaper. steve smith books tell alot about interchangeability btween gm A-bodys. Maybe buy it and sell the parts to someone who needs them

techmaster35
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 259
posted June 14, 2002 12:03 AM
please what ever you do dont cut up a good car that could be restored. i hate when somebody cuts up a good car for parts

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted June 25, 2002 04:16 PM UIN: 13209501
Well, the car is now sitting in my driveway. I was going to try and save it and restore it, but it is just not good enough and would seriously cost too much money. Now, my question is this, where should I start? I would assume working on a full-frame car is different than say a metric right? Should I pull the whole body off to put the roll cage in, then put the body back on? That seems to be the best way to me, with the floor pan being the only real obstacle. I am sure it could be fitted back in fairly easily though when all is said and done. Either that, or it might actually be easier to put it back in first. Is there anything in particular I should brace on this car? I know it is full frame, so it should be pretty stout. I would appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks.

John

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted June 26, 2002 01:55 AM UIN: 54865418
go ahead and pull the body off and get the mounts out and put an x in the frame with 1 1/4 in .083 tubing and in the tail section along with a 2x2 square tubeing to tie the rear frame horns together then put the body back on and cut the floor out where the cage will set and build the cage in the car if you have a cage already you are going to put in just cut the roof off and then weld it back on when your done when you seperate the floor pan it's alot of welding and time to get it back together. and a metric car is a full frame too

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted June 26, 2002 08:14 AM
Here is what I have done. Cut the roof off set the cage in already tacked together with the upper door bars in only. Mark the floorpan where the cage goes through. Drill 2" holes in the floorpan with a hole saw. Unbolt the floorpan jack it up and weld the cage to the frame. Let it back down and weld the floorpan to the cage and frame it makes for a strong car and looks very neat and is less work (no patching big holes) P.S. start looking for parts cars NOW!

[This message has been edited by powerglides (edited June 26, 2002).]

Brad haddix
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 56
posted June 26, 2002 09:41 AM
every week I read all the classifieds and I guess all the ones that are left are in michigan, hard to imagine since we drive on salt all winter. don't panic I just saw frame and front suspension for 50 bucks and a cutlass down the road for parts today I realize that don't help you just food for thought

[This message has been edited by Brad haddix (edited June 26, 2002).]

WesternAuto17
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 248
posted June 26, 2002 04:03 PM
In my opinion, the only right way to do it is remove everything down to the bare frame and than build it back up. This is expensive, but its the right way to do it. Cut the body down to only the visable sheet metal and hang that on the cage.

I bought a car which was pretty much stock with a cage dropped in and I built a car from the ground up (I started with a bare frame and cage) and the second cars is tons better. Everthing is new and I know what it all is.

Good luck whatever you do.

racer17j
Dirt Forum Champ
Total posts: 1565
posted June 26, 2002 04:54 PM UIN: 54865418
like western my first car was just cut out room where you need to weld my new one i cut out everything from the rocker into the flat part of the floor pan yes it does make for a little more patching but what is lighter a thin peice of tin or doulbe layer steel? i made my new car about 300# lighter by cutting those out along with the rear kicker panels and the back seat shelf the way i see it if it doesn't hold something on the body get rid of it

powerglides
Dirt Full Roller

Total posts: 69
posted June 27, 2002 06:14 AM
I have built all of my recent cars on a jig, with a bare sandblasted frame. and that is the best way to do it. But if its your first attempt at building a racecar, you will likely give up and go jet skiing! I hate to see half built cars sitting in the weeds.I also build my own cages but CSC has great kits.

dode
Dirt Freak

Total posts: 417
posted June 27, 2002 08:11 AM UIN: 13209501
Oh, the actually construction part won't be a problem. I have built full tube chassis's before for off-road racing (i.e. LOTS of suspension), so I am very famaliar with welding, tube bending and notching, etc. I don't see this as being a problem. Heck, it should actually be easier since the tolerances shouldn't be as tight (I don't see a rollcage needing like .25 degree tolerancing on bends HA HA HA). Actually, this isn't the first race car I have built. Basically I rebuilt one for a friend to race this year, doing most everything except for the roll cage. I have a pretty good idea what I am getting into. Thanks.

John

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